Q&A: Emer Landgraf, head sommelier at The Clove Club
Winner of the IWC Restaurant Wine award (Fine Dining category) 2024, head sommelier Emer Landgraf oversees a diverse, nuanced and downright brilliant list at The Clove Club in Shoreditch. Yet the Australian-born oenophile began her career as a finance graduate, undergoing a Damascene conversion after tasting some delectable Barolo alongside winemaker Chiara Boschis in 2016. The next few years were a whirlwind; after opening a successful wine bar, Mosconi, in the heart of Brisbane, Landgraf cut her teeth at the OTTO Restaurant in Queensland, working as assistant head sommelier. She talks to James Lawrence about childhood, waving goodbye to endless sunshine, and the beauty of Nebbiolo.
Where did you grow up?
I grew up in Maryborough, Queensland, Australia, a small town with a population of 25,000.
Was drinking wine a big part of your family life?
My parents would have wine over the weekend, but it was never really a big topic of conversation, and certainly not fine wine. Sometimes, we would have a nice bottle of wine like a Wirra Wirra Church Block (Cabernet/Syrah/Merlot) from Barossa Valley. I remember I used to enjoy it, but you wouldn't say we were much into fine wine drinking.
So what encouraged you to relocate to the damp and drizzly UK?
I wanted to be closer to wine regions while studying wine, and London would be a great place to start since everyone speaks English, I have family in Ireland and England, so the transition wasn't too difficult. I've managed to do a few wine trips to places like Tuscany, Bordeaux and Champagne, and I'm also going to Barolo later this year, trying to make the most of where I am.
What does it take to become a great sommelier?
What is the most important skill? Listening to the guests is super important. Occasionally, sommeliers don't really listen to what guests are saying and just give them something they think they would like. It's crucial to listen to and observe your guest to anticipate their needs.
Tell us more about your wine list at Clove Club – what's your top priority when selecting a wine for inclusion?
I like to identify gaps in the list and offer a versatile list. Working with wines with strong storytelling is always fun. I include wine regions that produce great wines, often from smaller areas or producers people haven't heard of before. I enjoy creating a wow factor for guests. I constantly look for artisan producers with a focus on biodynamic wines.
Why did you decide to get involved in judging at the Sommelier Wine Awards?
I thought it would help me grow as a taster and as a professional. I dream of applying to the Len Evans Tutorial, a prestigious wine school in Australia that accepts only 10 applicants a year, and I think participating in wine-judging events would definitely be a great way to support my application.
Tell us more about the highs – and lows – of working in the hospitality sector?
My favourite thing about this job is sharing stories with guests. As sommeliers, we are privileged to meet winemakers from all over the world and listen to their stories, and I'm always eager to share these with guests. My least favourite thing is encountering cork-tainted wines and having to explain this to guests can be challenging. We always replace them with fresh bottles, but it is never pleasant, especially for premium bottles.
On your nights off – beer, wine or spirits?
[Laughs] Wine and Champagne of course! Champagne is very versatile and goes well with many types of food or even on its own. I love how it evolves in the glass and even over the course of a few days in the bottle.
On a similar theme, which region deserves more attention in your opinion?
Tasmania in Australia deserves more attention because it’s very beautiful and diverse, producing extremely high-quality sparkling wines and still wines, from Chardonnays to Pinot Noirs. Each subregion has a unique microclimate. Sadly, the specific GI is just Tasmania, and more specific GIs need to be created to highlight these microclimates.
Who are your heroes in the world of wine?
One of my heroes is Chiara Boschis, a remarkable wine producer based in Barolo. She was the first woman to make Barolo. She was later dubbed one of the 'Barolo Boys', a group of men who significantly impacted the traditional versus modern vinification of Barolo. She was the first to start farming organically in the area of Cannubi and inspired a new wave of producers to adopt organic practices. Meeting her a few years ago, when I was studying for a financial degree, altered the course of my life and made me realise how cool wine is.
Finally – what is your ultimate food and wine combination?
Champagne and sweetbreads. We had a dish with veal sweetbread, apples, sorrel juic, and popcorn, and I just loved it. Champagne, such as a Blanc de Blancs, with the fresh garnish of the dish, helps cut through the richness of the dish.