Q&A: Milena De Waele, head sommelier at Pétrus by Gordon Ramsay

Dangerously affable and incredibly talented, Milena de Waele has taken London's wine scene by storm. Responsible for elevating the vinous offering at The Vineyard Hotel, Texture and Annabel’s in Mayfair, de Waele now oversees a fantastically diverse list at Pétrus by Gordon Ramsay. After a busy service, James Lawrence gets the lowdown on growing up in a professional kitchen, selling Pétrus by the glass, and her love of Riesling.

Tell us a little about yourself.

Born in the Loire Valley, I grew up in my parents’ restaurant, surrounded by food and drink until I was 12 years old. At the age of 20, after years of culinary and hospitality school, I decided to go to CFA De Béziers sommelier school in the south of France. I was always so fascinated with wine from outside of France, so much so that I decided to move to UK to The Vineyard Hotel in Stock Cross as commis sommelier. Since then I have had the pleasure to work at Texture in Marylebone, Matteo’s at Annabel’s and then Monarch Theatre at Park Row as head sommelier. I joined the incredible team at Pétrus in April of 2024, and the team and its offering is unmatched.

What inspired you to become a sommelier?

I have always been passionate about food and then, as I grew up, I began to understand that combining food and wine is pure art and that they shouldn’t be without each other. Sharing a passion and sharing emotions with our guests is what drives me every day in my sommelier role.

During your time as sommelier, what’s the most surprising and interesting thing you’ve learnt?

Every day I learn more and more about the industry and the way that it grows and changes. Being a female head sommelier is a challenge all on its own, and I have to ensure that I am at the top of my game.

How extensive is the by-the-glass offering at Pétrus by Gordon Ramsay?

A large part of my work at Pétrus is listening to what our guests want.  From this I curate a selection that speaks to them directly, whether from a popular vineyard in California or a small, family-run vineyard in Italy. I’m looking forward to introducing wines from eastern Europe, including Croatia and Poland, to diversify our guests’ palates. Of course, we will always offer the classics as they are comforting and always popular, but I am passionate about pushing the boundaries of our guests’ tastes.

How popular is the by-the-glass option today? Is there an issue with wastage etc, or is it a lucrative way of selling different wines to your guests?

By-the-glass is extremely popular at Pétrus, and thanks to the Coravin device for both still and sparkling wine, wastage is very limited. It’s a pleasure to be able to offer some vintage, rare, or iconic wines to our guest in any volume. This year, we have introduced three different vintages of Pétrus by the glass which wouldn’t have been possible without the Coravin system.

How do you feel about half bottles? Do you sell many at the restaurant?

Pétrus is the first restaurant in my experience where the half bottle is so popular. I have extended the selections and it’s working very well with business lunches, or for solo diners.

What is the most underrated variety or style in the world today, in your view?

I’m a huge fan of Riesling. In the UK, there is still the stigma that all Rieslings are sweet, particularly those from Germany and Austria. It’s an incredibly diverse grape, and it’s my mission to change the state of mind regarding this beautiful grape variety.

Tell us about your seminal food and wine pairing?

Goat’s cheese such as St Maure de Touraine from the Loire Valley with a Touraine Sauvignon Blanc. It’s something indescribable – the texture, the flavours and aromas are just perfect.

Finally – favourite tipple apart from wine?

I love Negronis. It’s an interesting one as I had to learn to love it – the initial bitterness wasn’t my favourite but now, I love it!