Varietal Classics: New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc
2015: Gold 3 Silver 5 Bronze 11 Commended 3
2014: Gold 2 Silver 7 Bronze 2 Commended 5
That there has been (or that there is underway) a stylistic shift in Kiwi Sauvignon now seems indisputable. A few years ago, our tasters detected the odd move towards restraint and minerality – Loire-like leafiness over full-on tropical in-yer-face-ness – particularly at the upper end. This year, even in this sub-£12 section, the stylistic split was probably close to 50/50. Some thought the public would be confused and would prefer the old-style Marlborough Sav; others liked the food-friendliness on offer.
You pays your money and takes your choice. But either way, this seems increasingly to be an area where the winemakers are masters of their craft.
FOOTNOTE: The price limit for the Varietal Classics category is £12 ex-VAT. NZ Sauvignon Blanc can also be entered in the relevant New World Sauvignon Blanc category.
SWA Spotlight
Another Gold for Tinpot Hut in the Varietal Classics section, following up its Pinot Grigio with a Kiwi Sauvignon.
From the Tasting Teams
‘The difference between "in" and "out" here was reductive or clumsy winemaking, but there wasn’t much of that.’ Angela Reddin, team leader
‘Some were more Loire-like than I was expecting. I think punters like to know what they are getting.’ Sam Caporn MW, consultant
‘Kiwi Sauvignon is our biggest seller. I think they should be careful of going too much down the “restraint” route.’ Guillaume Mahaut, The Jugged Hare
‘Overall, there was a bit more restraint in the styles, with the best wines showing more texture; food-leaning wines, without the explosive aromatics.’ Martin Lam, team leader
‘On the list we are looking for freshness and intensity, but more restrained, textured styles that will pair with food and not overwhelm the flavours in the dish. There has clearly been a lot of evolution towards such styles in New Zealand.’ Roger Jones, The Harrow at Little Bedwyn
‘New Zealand has really found its feet as the styles of Sauvignon Blanc evolve. The newer styles can be very good food wines.’ Michael Harrison, consultant
‘A lot of overly sweet wines, targeting the Coca Cola generation. Some of these should come with a health warning.’ Maxwell Allwood, Alimentum