House Wine: White
2016 Gold: 3 Silver: 8 Bronze: 10 Commended: 23
2015 Gold: 5 Silver: 13 Bronze: 11 Commended: 17
Despite SWA growing year on year, the number of House White medals fell slightly last year – and significantly this year. Increases in duty and currency issues are clearly combining to make the £5.50 cut-off difficult – even for wines with no oak (which was almost all of the whites) – and the increased number of ‘outed’ wines and Commendeds showed that our teams were not getting the same amount of wine for their money as they did here a few years ago.
Stylistically, our tasters mostly went for wines with softness and mouthfeel – with a surprising number of single varietal Chardonnays among the medals. Cono Sur’s lone Gewürztraminer, Los Gansos, deserves a special mention for a second place on the Gold List in three years and a By The Glass Trophy to boot.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘With the house wine you try to have something you can drink at quantity – one or two glasses with food – and you need to please everyone. So you need to take care. It is a big seller and people need to say “we’ll get it because it is good” not “we’ll get it because it is cheap”.’ Lionel Periner, The Lucky Onion
‘I look for something that’s easy to sell, easy to drink and accessible immediately. Not too complex or a hand sell – something like a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.’ Chantal Serrano, The Cinnamon Club
‘What people have to remember about the house wine category is that you are up against branded beer or gin and tonic, rather than other styles of wine. It’s almost an aperitif.’ Michael Best, WSET
‘There’s no excuse for bad winemaking.’ Annette Scarfe MW, team leader
‘When it comes to house wines, I would not necessarily have just one of each (red and white) or the cheapest. I count the first three on the wine list as house – and they all fit very different categories. If you have time to talk to a table, you will see if they want clean and fresh, mineral or fruity – and there is more chance to educate people in the wider wines.’ Charles Pashby-Taylor, Dabbous
‘When looking for a house white, avoid Pinot Grigio as it will cannibalise your sales.’ Olivier Marie, team leader
FOOTNOTE: The price limit for House Wine is £5.50 ex-VAT.