Champagne: NV
2015: Gold 4 Silver 13 Bronze 6 Commended 11
2014: Gold 4 Silver 11 Bronze 10 Commended 9
The good news first: on this evidence there’s plenty of good non-vintage champagne around, in pretty much any style you want, from fresh to rich, and ultra-brut to off-dry. The bad news? It ain’t cheap: prices have gone up about 25% over the past five years, leaving restaurants either to pour smaller measures, negotiate harder with suppliers, or swallow the difference. Decisions, decisions.
Star performer
Well done to Drappier and Charles Heidsieck, both of whom picked up Gold for the second and third year running, respectively.
From the Tasting Teams
‘In a category that can often disappoint, these really over-achieved, especially in the ultra-brut category, with real maturity and roundness.’ Michael Harrison, consultant
‘For me, acidity is the tipping point. They need freshness, but once they start to get green flavours the klaxons go off.’ Neil Bruce, Studio Alto
‘We had diversity: something from every corner of the spectrum, rich and ripe as well as fresh and clean and crisp. It’s always good to have options for different kind of customers!’ Sandro Lyhs, Oxo Tower Bar
‘I really enjoyed the off-dry styles. I think they’re absolutely brilliant with the right food.’ William Sheard, Donostia Restaurants
‘Some were a little too light, even for a house champagne – you need some character for the guests to enjoy, as it is not a cheap option.’ Frédéric Jean-Yves Billet, Luton Hoo Hotel Golf & Spa
‘The expensive wines in this flight were very good, but there was also some really good value to be found.’ James Hocking, The Vineyard Group