New World: Malbec
2016 Gold: 5 Silver: 7 Bronze: 6 Commended: 13
2015 Gold: 2 Silver: 4 Bronze: 6 Commended: 4
Argentina meets Chile in the battle for the Malbec Cup. There’s a clear favourite, and a clear winner – but my word the plucky Chileans ran them close.
You would, frankly, expect Argentina to win this category. It’s what Sauvignon Blanc is to New Zealand and Chenin is to South Africa. And a Gold List score of 4-1 was pretty respectable. But until the referee gave a late penalty, which Fabre Montemayou slotted home to secure the win, it was looking close.
The good news here is that there’s plenty of good Malbec to choose from on both sides of the Andes – and our Gold List had a beautiful laddering of medals from ‘good value’ (two crackers from Trapiche) right the way up to ‘serious trade-up’. Such options are useful because the one thing on which all our tasters agreed is that Malbec is a massively popular grape at the moment.
You can bet that experimental plantings are in the ground in Oz and South Africa, and it wouldn’t surprise us if we see a few more countries getting in on the medals a few years down the line.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Really typical wines – just what I was expecting. Powerful, silky tannins, commercial and easy to sell.’ Mattia Scarpazza, Petersham Nurseries Café
‘Some were delicate, some were over-extracted, some were green – very confusing.’ Kelvin McCabe, Yauatcha City
‘I thought the wines would have more of a sense of place.’ Olivier Marie, team leader
‘If I had to choose a Malbec, I would probably still go for an Argentinean one. But I can’t list it for £75.’ Gabriele Galuppo, Theo Randall at the InterContinental
‘Savoury, tangy, fruity – it’s wine that goes with all kinds of meat dishes and is an easy seller.’ Richard Brooks, Caroline Catering
‘Quite often they’re jammy, extracted and oaky – freshness and crunch is often lacking in Argentina. Though there is a place for them on the list. They’re not for complex food, you don’t want anything too subtle.’ Natasha Hughes MW, team leader