New World: Gewürztraminer & Torrontés
2016 Gold: 2 Silver: 1 Bronze: 3 Commended: 1
2015 Gold: 1 Silver: 3 Bronze: 0 Commended: 4
Not that long ago, this ‘spicies’ section was impossible to predict: over-exuberant one year, mean and nasty the next. It was the teenage girl of the wine world.
Well, of late, it seems to have found its self-belief and settled down into something rather more reliable. Sure, the tasters tend to remove a fair few wines that they don’t like at the early stages. But both varieties are a lot steadier than they used to be.
For Gewürz, winemakers are generally settling down into a style that’s lighter and fresher than Alsace versions, but still has a bit of tarty fruit to it.
Torrontés, meanwhile, is forging a path all of its own. When it gets it right, it seems able to make wines that are fresh, ethereal, aromatic and almost smoky/spicy. If Gewürz is like sticking your head in a brothel-keeper’s handbag, Torrontés is more like inhaling a joss stick in Lawrence of Arabia’s tent.
Neither variety, needless to say, is an easy sell to the public, but it’s good that we were able to find one of each for our Gold List this year. They really add an extra je ne sais quoi.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘I often find Gewürz too alcoholic, but these medal winners were refreshing and bright, intriguing in a way. They’d be good by the glass.’ Jade Koch, team leader
‘The Torrontés flight was better than I expected, and [The Norton] was most impressive – it was very aromatic but not OTT; no sweetness, bone-dry and nicely made. It was representative stylistically.’ Xavier Rousset MS, Blandford Comptoir
‘I look for acidity in Torrontés – it makes the difference with freshness, as Torrontés needs a lot of ripeness. If people like Gewürztraminer this off-dry or bone-dry style can be a good alternative, as it is a very aromatic variety.’ Gaetano Giangaspero, The Orrery
‘Gewürztraminer should be used more often for house wine; it’s something you don’t find very often.’ Rudina Arapi, Galvin at Windows
‘Not many restaurants have Torrontés on the list – it’s still an unknown grape variety. But it’s definitely a seasonal, summer wine.’ Erik Simonics, The Savoy
“Torrontés is hard to hand-sell. It needs more understanding.” Xavier Rousset MS, Blandford Comptoir