New World: Viognier

2016 Gold: 1 Silver: 3 Bronze: 1 Commended: 2
2015 Gold: 2 Silver: 4 Bronze: 2 Commended: 4

Viognier is rather like a winner of X Factor. For several years everyone swarmed around the variety, fussing over every new country that started planting it and assuring growers that it was totally going to be the Next Big Thing, the grape to take over from Chardonnay. It had modelling contracts, a three-album deal and was rumoured to be starring in a movie alongside Tom Cruise. It was a variety with the world at its feet.

But it never quite delivered on its promise and has spent most of the past 15 years hanging out in bars telling people how it once had a number five hit in Sweden and was the face of Krunchie Pop breakfast cereal for six months.

So its slow renaissance in the Sommelier Wine Awards is heartening. A few years ago, producers seemed to be trying for a ‘fresher, lighter’ style, which didn’t really work – stripping out much of the grape’s Viognier-ness. Now, there are wines that are joyously buxom, but also nicely proportioned – big curves all over, rather than silicon-enhanced on a spindly frame.

Interestingly, no one country seems to be dominating with the grape, either. Our five medal winners here came from four different countries. Let’s hope for a few more contenders next year. It’s a grape that might, finally, be fulfilling its teenage promise.

FROM THE TASTING TEAMS

‘Consumers still need to get into it. The best were very well made: creaminess and butteriness, but freshness and stone fruit, too – they ticked all the boxes.’ Luca Campi, Plateau Restaurant

‘It works with food: seafood, fresh salads in summertime, roast chicken on the barbeque. There’s still a lot of difference between Old World and New World Viognier.’ Carlos Ferreira, The Sign of the Don

‘I wasn’t expecting heaviness and richness. Some were more aromatic, some were a bit flabby. The middle price points were the best.’ Rudina Arapi, Galvin at Windows

‘This was quite a strong flight and it mostly showed good varietal typicity. There are more unoaked styles coming through, which have more purity of fruit and it makes them more affordable as well as there’s no cost of oak involved.’ Annette Scarfe MW, team leader

“Viognier works on a wine list, but freshness is the key; and the best ones had that.” James Hocking, The Vineyard Group

“People are a bit scared of Viognier, they don’t know what to expect.” Luca Campi, Plateau Restaurant