Italy: Central reds, including Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
2015: Gold 2 Silver 5 Bronze 6 Commended 4
2014: Gold 1 Silver 4 Bronze 7 Commended 4
This area of the Sommelier Wine Awards might be lacking in star quality DOs (even Montepulciano’s most ardent fans would probably agree that it’s more ‘regular in Casualty’ than Hollywood A-list). But that does have certain advantages. Not least, a heartening tendency to be affordable. With both Golds going to well-priced wines from Fantini, more than a third of the medal winners here were under £10, which is something of a result for Italy, and, moreover, when the region did decide to move upmarket and get all five-star with the pricing it pretty much pulled it off. A seriously good hunting ground for ‘typical Italian crunch’ without wallet-rinsing prices.
Star Performer
Congratulations to Farnese for picking up both Golds in this category for wines coming in under £7.
FOOTNOTE: includes wines from Emilia-Romagna, Umbria, Marche, Lazio, Abruzzo & Molise.
From the Tasting Teams
‘These are definitely wines for food. They don’t tend to shine so much in tastings, but pair well with meaty food, when they really shine.’ Max Allwood, Alimentum
‘The trademark high acidity was there, plus a hint of rustic character. Trademark Central Italian reds, with nothing clumsy or over-made.’ Chris Wood, Chelsea Vintners
‘At the low end, the Montepulcianos were fruity and simple; safe, quaffable and not overcomplicated. As soon as it started gearing up a notch, the wines became deeper, more complex, tannic and perfumed wines – a very good flight!’ Athila Roos, The Arts Club
‘The Montepulcianos would be a bit of a hand-sell at the top end, but it would be worthwhile. It’s a bit of a chameleon grape, it can give some joy when young, and more serious pleasure when older.’ Andrea Briccarello, team leader
‘Price was the main issue. The bulk of Montepulciano ends up in casual dining places – an easy-going wine to drink with pasta and pizza. People are not going to spend up to some of these prices.’ Neil Bruce, Studio Alto