Spain: Rioja – Reserva & Gran Reserva
2015: Gold 5 Silver 10 Bronze 9 Commended 11
2014: Gold 2 Silver 1 Bronze 4 Commended 4
If Rioja is one of the central pillars of this competition, then its cornerstone is probably Reserva. And the vintages that served the Crianzas so well last year (2010 and 2011 for the most part) drove the Reservas this year to a record number of Golds, with several tasters commenting on the category’s amazing consistency of quality.
As with the whites, our tasters were very happy with the stylistic variety that they saw here, with pretty much all the judges prepared to list one or two examples of ‘traditional’ and ‘modern’ wines alike, in order to create a balanced Rioja portfolio that would suit the needs of any customer.
The only negative this year? A lacklustre performance (yet again) from the Gran Reservas… an area where our tasters are happy to see the full-on, lighter, spicier, oxidised character, but found it in only a couple of the wines.
Star Performer
Congratulations to Ondarra for picking up two of the five Golds with its reservas
FOOTNOTE: This category also included wines that could, officially, have called themselves Reservas, but had elected not to do so.
From the Tasting Teams
‘At the entry level I feel there’s only room for the modern style. It’s too complicated to explain that the wine is not faulty. Once you have a sommelier I think you can give people the choice.’ Annette Scarfe MW, team leader
‘It was good to see some old-school wines here. Just because the younger people are not used to that, should you stop making that more mature style? People can be introduced to the more modern style and with age they can move to the more traditional style.’ Jeremie Guiraud, Lords of the Manor
‘I think when they order Rioja, consumers are still looking for fruity, oaky reds. But people’s palates change. Restaurants change. Chefs are cooking with brisk, lighter flavours and the wine has changed in line with that.’ Sandia Chang, Bubbledogs
‘We found plenty of variation in style, but most notable was just how good this flight was. It really showed why people are right to love Rioja and to default to that for a great drinking experience.’ Christine Parkinson, Hakkasan Group
‘Gran Reserva has changed, definitely. You don’t see so much of that lovely, attenuated beauty.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘Things are changing. We had an old-school by the glass Gran Reserva and we used to have people sending it back because they were expecting something different – not as oxidised. But we left the wine on the list and just changed the way we explained it to the guests. It worked.’ Sandro Lyhs, Oxo Tower Bar