New World: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Bordeaux blends, South Africa
2016 Gold: 3 Silver: 8 Bronze: 4 Commended: 2
2015 Gold: 0 Silver: 4 Bronze: 4 Commended: 6
Many column inches have been given over of late to South Africa’s field blends with oddball (or hugely unfashionable) grape varieties made by Men With Beards. But perhaps we should be looking at the more traditional reds from more traditional bits of the Cape as well. This was South Africa’s best-ever performance in the Sommelier Wine Awards with Bordeaux reds, and our tasters were unreservedly delighted with what they got.
Unlike Australia, this was not simply a procession of Cabs – there were plenty of blends as well – and unlike Chile, our tasters had no problems with rewarding the more expensive versions either: the Gold medals ran from £12 to £24.
Moreover, there seemed to be a genuine ‘South African style’. In the past, this would have been a euphemism for ‘unripe tannins, masked by sugar’, but not any more. There was a distinctive voice here, and at times it was decidedly classy.
And if you ever wondered whether South African reds can age, you should check out the Critic’s Choice-winning Estate Red from Morgenster – a 2003 Bordeaux blend of rare beauty that had our tasters referencing top-level Bordeaux.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘This was a more than pleasant surprise. Lovely winemaking, not overdone, and you could tell it was South Africa – they had real South African style.’ Angela Reddin, team leader
‘Very consistent style and quality. Every vintage they’re fine-tuning their style, and at these price points they did deliver.’ Mahesh Nair, Charlotte Street Hotel
‘A good selection, all priced very well. Impressed.’ Roger Jones, The Harrow at Little Bedwyn
‘The most consistent flight we’ve had all day, but there was a real thread of style running through the wines. Once we got over £8 there were some very interesting quality wines at very decent price points.’ Hamish Anderson, The Tate Group
‘Across pretty much all of the price points there is impressive winemaking and expression. It would be hard to come across other Bordeaux blends at these price points that would hold up as well.’ Charlie Young, Vinoteca
‘This really shows why there is so much excitement in the market for South African wines.’ Peter McDaid, Spring
“They seem at ease with this style. This tasting really makes you take notice.” Charlie Young, Vinoteca
“Generally speaking they were classically structured wines, and I appreciated that from a food point of view.” Hamish Anderson, The Tate Group
“South Africa is doing very well with Bordeaux blends. Customers know that for less price they can get higher quality than in Bordeaux.” Carlos Ferreira, The Sign of the Don