NEW WORLD: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Bordeaux Blends: Australia

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Winner Details

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Bordeaux Blends, Australia

2016 Gold: 2 Silver: 13 Bronze: 2 Commended: 7
2015 Gold: 6 Silver: 6 Bronze: 5 Commended: 5

If we assume that 2015’s six Golds was an exceptionally good haul for Australia, then this year’s two was a solid ‘back to normal’ performance rather than a big drop with the Bordeaux blends. Well, we say ‘Bordeaux blends’ – but the concept of blending is not one that seems to be catching on much Down Under, and this section was made up almost entirely of single varietals. And since single varietal Merlot remains a blessed oddity they were nearly all Cabernet.

This might sound like a recipe for tedium, but in fact (like last year), our tasters were impressed with what they found. While this year’s wines may not have provided quite so many Gold-Listed high points, there was a lot of strength in depth. Taster after taster praised the consistency and overall balance of the wines before them – something that came through in the high number of Silver medals awarded.

If there are any negatives from what was a largely positive experience, it would be the under-performance of Margaret River (no Golds, compared with four last year) and a few reservations about the dialling down of traditional Australian exuberance – particularly in big-fruit areas like Coonawarra. Somms like elegance, it’s true – but not at the expense of local character.

FROM THE TASTING TEAMS

‘The flight of the day. The consistency, the vibrancy, balanced and structured. They were a real pleasure.’ Sam Caporn MW, team leader

‘The consistency of the quality – great typicity, they were blackcurrant and eucalyptus in a really nice way, and there was some fantastic value. People think about Shiraz as Australia’s red grape and Cab is an underdog, but it shouldn’t be.’ Daniel Murray, Berners Tavern

‘If you like a direct, fruity, accessible Bordeaux blend then Margaret River is the place to go.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader

‘You need to have a Cabernet Sauvignon on the list from Australia, and Margaret River has a particular characteristic.’ Julien Sahut, Sexy Fish

‘The Coonawarra Cabs seem to be going more restrained. In one sense, it’s a good thing, but they’ve rather lost some of what made them good in the first place. They were perfectly pleasant, but not so much personality as we expected.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader

“My favourite flight of the day. I will start thinking more about listing Australian wines after today.” Zuzanna Rogowska, M Restaurants

Award winners

Found 24 wines

New World: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Bordeaux Blends, Australia

Redheads Studio, Esulé 2014, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia

'Silky and well balanced, with ripe, dark fruits and rounded tannins,' said Piero Pruneri of Aramark at JP Morgan, epitomising how Cabernet champions Redheads Studio struck Gold.

'Smooth on the palate with dark notes of leather, chocolate and liquorice, and a lovely viscous texture on the palate,' said Daniel Murray of Berners Tavern, with team leader Sam Caporn MW noting its 'fruits of the forest and summer pudding aromas, a very pretty wine of great purity and structure'.

£15.55 Direct Wines Production

Berton Vineyards, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Coonawarra, South Australia, Australia

Soft and easy drinking, but full of eucalyptus and a typical sense of place. Team leader Laura Rhys MS noted this Gold Lister's 'rich, bold fruit and herbaceous character', while Alex Cooper of Haymarket Hotel found 'generous fruit, good spice and soft tannin', and Caroline Catering's Richard Brooks said: 'Big wine!. This calls for some really big red meat dishes.'

£9.92 Hallgarten & Novum Wines

Mitolo, Jester, Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia

'Spicy, peppery, vegetal and herbaceous,' began Zuzanna Rogowska of M Restaurants, with team leader Sam Caporn MW finding plenty of 'black cherry notes with morello cherry on the finish, and nice structure'.

£10.50 Liberty Wines

Katnook Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Coonawarra, South Australia, Australia

A more subtle style but still showing vibrant fruit and fresh acidity, with team leader Laura Rhys MS noting its 'dark fruits, juicy and bright on the palate', and Caroline Catering's Richard Brooks picking up on the 'earthy, plummy fruit character' and 'huge warmth', saying: 'A big appealing glass of wine.'

£15.50 Berkmann Wine Cellars

Hay Shed Hill, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia

Team leader Sarah Jane Evans MW found this a 'fun and friendly' red with its 'bright, juicy red fruits', while Julien Sahut of Sexy Fish noted its 'fresh, juicy nose and dry, peppery, spicy palate with plenty of tannin'.

£13.10 Bancroft Wines

Amelia Park, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia

'Well balanced, smooth and rounded, fruity and well developed, with soft, medium tannins,' said Galvin La Chapelle's Michaela Večeřová, while team leader Sarah Jane Evans MW added: 'Bursting with ripe juice at the onset, but calms down with menthol and spice from the oak. Long.'

£25.00 New Generation McKinleys

Heartland, Directors' Cut, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Langhorne Creek, South Australia, Australia

'Big, peppery Cabernet nose with ripe, sweet fruit on the palate,' began Daniel Murray of Berners Tavern, with team leader Sam Caporn MW noting 'good cedar with some spicy oak, red and black fruit, and lovely length'.

£17.42 Enotria&Coe

Rathbone Wine Group, Xanadu, Exmoor Drive, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia

Julien Sahut of Sexy Fish found 'leafy, juicy, peppery aromas, with big, rich, spicy black fruit' on the palate, while team leader Sarah Jane Evans MW said: 'Floral and delicately scented, bright and vigorous on the palate, full of energy and brambly fruits.'

£9.18 Bibendum

Fraser Gallop, Parterre, Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia

'Complex red fruit and cedar nose, retrained on the palate but full of juice and red fruit with delicate, grainy tannin,' said team leader Sarah Jane Evans MW, while Julien Sahut of Sexy Fish noted 'bay leaf herbs, black cherry fruit and good integration for a great food wine'.

£19.83 Bibendum

Wynns, Black Label, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Coonawarra, South Australia, Australia

'Lovely richness of darker fruits, with black cherry and blackberry coming to the fore, followed by well-rounded tannins and good spice with a smooth finish,' said Haymarket Hotel's Alex Cooper, while team leader Tom Forrest also noted the 'soft spice and smoky savouriness'.

£15.28 Bibendum

Accolade Wines, Starve Dog Lane, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia

'Lovely, deep cedar character on a relatively restrained nose, with good concentration on the palate. Well made,' said team leader Sam Caporn MW.

'A powerful number, with marked tannins,' confirmed Piero Pruneri of Aramark at JP Morgan.

£10.87 Matthew Clark

Accolade Wines, Hardys, HRB, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Margaret River/Coonawarra/Frankland River, Australia

'Very elevated mint and eucalyptus on the nose and palate, with a dry tannin finish,' said team leader Sam Caporn MW, while Zuzanna Rogowska of M Restaurants highlighted its 'big, powerful, bold character with touches of spice and dried fruit'.

£17.55 Matthew Clark

Yalumba, The Menzies, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Coonawarra, South Australia, Australia

A lovely example, with ripe, rich, black fruit compote character, showing notes of Christmas spices and black olives on a long and complex palate. Team leader Tom Forrest picked up on the 'leathery black fruits, the white pepper and spice aromas', and the excellent balance throughout.

£24.82 Negociants

Berton Vineyards, Metal Label, Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, South Eastern Australia, Australia

'Wow! Lovely colour and massively lifted nose, with black cherry, mint and cassis,' said team leader Sam Caporn MW, adding: 'Commercial, tasty and good value.'
'Peppermint and bell pepper with a touch of sweetness, fresh and elegant on the palate, with delicate tannins,' added Zuzanna Rogowska of M Restaurants.

£8.14 Hallgarten & Novum Wines

Dandelion Vineyards, Damsel of The Barossa, Merlot 2014, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia

'Quite light cedar notes on the nose, a slight baked fruit character, but a sound, minty, savoury style,' said team leader Sam Caporn MW.

'Very pronounced fruit, juicy and elegant,' added Zuzanna Rogowska of M Restaurants.

£10.00 Liberty Wines

Hay Shed Hill, Pitchfork, Cabernet/Merlot 2013, Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia

'Intense on the nose, very fruity and jammy, with nice round tannins,' began Galvin La Chapelle's Michaela Večeřová, with team leader Sarah Jane Evans MW noting: 'Charming, ripe nose with red fruits and green herbs, with a very vivid palate.'

£8.00 Bancroft Wines

Dandelion Vineyards, Pride of The Fleurieu, Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, South Australia, Australia

Daniel Murray of Berners Tavern found it 'very good, with fresh morello cherry and savoury notes of capsicum', while team leader Sam Caporn MW commented: 'Lovely cedar, black cherry and cassis with good structure.'

£9.60 Liberty Wines

Katnook Estate, Merlot 2013, Coonawarra, South Australia , Australia