New World: Pinot Noir, New Zealand
2016 Gold: 4 Silver: 6 Bronze: 8 Commended: 7
2015 Gold: 4 Silver: 10 Bronze: 5 Commended: 10
Ask most somms which New World country is best known for Pinot Noir and they’ll almost certainly say New Zealand. Ask them which bit of NZ and they’ll probably reply Central Otago. Yet the home of Lord of the Rings hasn’t really turned on the magic in this competition. Invivo’s Gold this year was only the second one in four years for the region – a performance that’s more Bimbo than Bilbo.
It’s not so much style as price that’s often the issue for Central Otago. The cheap wines are often not very good, and the decent bottles can be pretty pricey. Moreover, for that kind of expense, somms tend to want elegance rather than power, and some of the entrants would stop a marauding orc in his tracks.
Marlborough’s wines tend to be less ambitious, but stylistically more approachable, more consistent and, crucially, better value. This year’s trio (including the astonishingly good By The Glass Award-winning Foley for less than £7) were a case in point, and our tasters were happy to fill most of the places on the list (for what is, all agreed, a ‘must-list category’) with wines from the heartland of Kiwi Sav rather than Gandalf et al.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Burgundy has always had a reputation for inconsistency but these [Central Otago wines] were inconsistent too.’ Richard Brooks, Caroline Catering
‘Burgundy doesn’t show this level of consistency [of Marlborough flight].’ Enikő Heidenwolf, 67 Pall Mall
‘New World Pinot Noir has become a must-have on a restaurant list. The danger is the producers sitting on their laurels – and they’re expensive for what they deliver. There’s a danger that consumers will become disillusioned.’ Natasha Hughes MW, team leader
‘I can see why New Zealand Pinot Noir is so popular: some sweetness, easy to drink, bold flavours. But it can lack intensity.’ Andrés Ituarte, Avenue Restaurant
‘New Zealand Pinot Noir should be something you can buy with confidence.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘I was expecting more raciness.’ Dominique Raclin, consultant sommelier
“The New Zealand wines were, frankly, pretty disappointing, either dilute or overoaked.” Natasha Hughes MW, team leader
“Marlborough Pinot Noir has a place on the menu. It’s approachable and friendly.” Ignacio Campos, Hawksmoor Seven Dials
“If you tasted Burgundy at similar prices, these are way better value – more opulence, better fruit.” Harry Crowther, M Restaurants