New World: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Bordeaux blends, Chile
2016 Gold: 4 Silver: 10 Bronze: 7 Commended: 6
2015 Gold: 4 Silver: 5 Bronze: 10 Commended: 15
After an oddly muted competition last year, Chile returned with some style this year. We had wines from pretty much every region of the country, and all seemed to find favour with the judges.
Chile’s strength remains the sub-£10 area, which it still seems to do far better than anyone else; very few of our medals were above this price level. It’s not that our tasters are inherently averse to rewarding Chilean wines at this price, but more that the wines often don’t deliver significantly more complexity – just more oak, gloopier fruit and a heavier bottle.
All our judges agreed that the country has a real role to play on a list: that of a refuge for the uncertain, the impecunious or the fruit-addicted. The question is (as it seems to have been for ever) whether the country can move beyond this and start creating more genuinely exciting Cabs around the £12-£15 mark.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Colchagua provides your House Red. Value is the word. They show varietal characteristics – you get plummy Merlot and nice, dark-fruit Cabernet. I brought a French Cabernet Sauvignon in to replace the Chilean and everyone wanted it back.’ Ian Howard, The White Hart Inn at Lydgate
‘The price is great. Bordeaux at £8 would be undrinkable.’ Bart Michalewicz, The Arts Club
‘For me, Colchagua’s too hot for Cabernet. There was a lot of hard acidity – and I don’t know if a lot of it was natural.’ Simon Woods, team leader
‘They were dynamic and fresh. Ripe fruits, spices, great balance. They would be amazing by the glass and would be great with food.’ Laurent Richet MS, Restaurant Sat Bains
‘Australian and Argentinian wines at this price couldn’t compete.’ Chris Woods, Chelsea Vintners
‘Chile’s strengths still lie at the value end of the market. Once you hit the £10-£12 bracket you get so much more from Australia, New Zealand, even Argentina. As you go up the price scale there should be more than just heavier bottles and more oak.’ Natasha Hughes MW, team leader
‘Good value for money from the start, but it took a bit of a dip in the mid-price. There’s heavy oak but enough fruit and opulence to offset that. Compared to other New World Bordeaux blends they lacked a bit of elegance.’ Harry Crowther, M Restaurants
“The Colchagua Cabernets were what I expected from a Chilean line-up: Cabernet varietal character, full body and big tannins.” Ian Howard, The White Hart Inn at Lydgate
“I quite enjoyed the lower price points: very good, honest, unoaked wines with good structure. There’re moving away from big and jammy to more freshness.” Matthieu Longuère MS, Le Cordon Bleu
“The most reliable flight we’ve come across in this competition for years. There were a lot of really well-made wines here.” Tom Forrest, team leader