New World: Chardonnay, South Africa
2016 Gold: 3 Silver: 4 Bronze: 2 Commended: 6
2015 Gold: 3 Silver: 3 Bronze: 4 Commended: 4
South Africa’s ‘Chardolution’ has been less well documented than that from Oz, but it’s there none the less. After years of dismal showings in this competition, this was the third successive Sommelier Wine Awards when the country has picked up a good string of medals and three places on the Gold List.
Stylistically, these wines were slightly more fruit-forward than Australia’s ‘New Roo’ versions, and about 10-20% cheaper on average, making them probably more gastropub/brasserie than fine-dining, though it was good to see that our judges had no hesitation in rewarding wines of real ambition when they found them.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘The wines hit the sweet spot on the menu, not too cheap, not too expensive, and well made. There were some charming wines in this flight, though some were reductive.’ Ignacio Campos, Hawksmoor Seven Dials
‘At the cheaper end, they would probably be sold as “a glass of white”. As you went up the price level, they gave you oak, but it was very well handled.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘What are you looking for in South African Chardonnay? There were very mixed feelings around the table. There isn’t a clear style.’ Andrea Briccarello, team leader
‘There wasn’t much terroir, it felt like the wines were made in the winery, and it felt that some were acidified, which wasn’t appealing.’ Andrés Ituarte, Avenue Restaurant
‘We do one By The Glass and it sells well. It’s a good option if you don’t want to spend too much on Chardonnay, there’s good value in South Africa.’ Nausicaa Rotoloni, Roka Mayfair
‘Some styles were really heavy oak bombs, other were more mineral and citrus-focused. The most expensive one was very good, but could you charge £80-£100 for it? I’m not sure you could.’ Harry Crowther, M Restaurants
“There’s a very nice evolution compared to what was being made 10 years ago.” Dominique Raclin, consultant sommelier