France: South & South-West – White
2016 Gold: 4 Silver: 5 Bronze: 1 Commended: 7
2015 Gold: 1 Silver: 3 Bronze: 7 Commended: 8
This is one of the few categories in the Sommelier Wine Awards where cheapness is still the norm, so no great surprise that all but two of our medal winners were under the £10 mark. And since top awards here have been as rare as a coherent policy at a Donald Trump rally in recent years, it was also good to see four wines making it on to the Gold List.
Yet for all the highlights provided by the medal winners, our tasters were unconvinced about the region as a whole – as a look at the mostly negative feedback below shows. This was, after all, a big category with a lot of entries – so to end up with just 10 medals suggests that there is an awful lot of dross being spewed out. Again, rather like a Donald Trump rally.
The most striking omission is a lack of Picpouls. Despite its popularity with the punters (who presumably would rather be drinking battery acid if it were on offer), the grape has never done particularly well in SWA, and only L’Abeille’s version picked up a medal this time.
Muscats and, in particular, Viogniers fared better, but this is a region that needs to keep the pricing where it is and up the quality a notch or two.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘A sad line-up from the South of France. You expect texture, flavour and high aromas. It should be an exciting category.’ Jade Koch, team leader
‘The House Whites were more impressive by a long way. The price point of these is difficult – France is in a lot of trouble.’ Laurent Richet MS, Restaurant Sat Bains
‘I look for a white that is good value for money, refreshing and easy to drink, with nice character, fruit and freshness. Too many of these were too short and bitter.’ Chantal Serrano, The Cinnamon Club
‘Typical of the region, from flowers and herbs – they have a sense of place.’ Vittorio Gentile, Theo Randall at the InterContinental
‘Too many of these had an astringent bitterness. You think South of France and you think bright, sunny, with fields… and you want to think of that when you’re drinking it.’ Scott Levy, Smith & Wollensky London