Germany & Austria - White
2016 Gold: 6 Silver: 10 Bronze: 2 Commended: 7
2015 Gold: 7 Silver: 7 Bronze: 8 Commended: 5
Certain flights are keenly anticipated every year by our tasters, and German and Austrian whites is definitely one of them.
For the most part, this section is about Rieslings, with varying degrees of sugar, alcohol, acidity and ambition, and we got pretty much the full gamut this year to choose from.
The problem – always – with these wines is balancing the undoubted affection that our somm tasters feel for them with the realities of putting together a halfway realistic wine list. Even big fans of Austria and Germany in general, and Riesling in particular, accept that it’s largely off the radar for most consumers – or if it is on the radar, is marked with a big sign saying ‘here be dragons’.
The result? Plenty of really good Silvers to choose from if you want to indulge your inner petrol-head.
In the past we’ve had Golds for Weissburgunders, Gewürzs and Scheurebes, but not in 2016. Apart from Riesling, when it came to medals, this year was solely about Grüner Veltliner.
The variety seems to be worming its way into the consciousness of the wine-drinking public – not quite a must-list, but close – and while we’d like to have had a stronger showing, it was still heartening to be able to get a couple of good (and different) ones on our final Gold List.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘The Rieslings were excellent – a really lovely range. But I was surprised at the pricing. How many people drink expensive German Riesling?’ Sam Caporn MW, team leader
‘Riesling definitely fits on a list in the medium price range; between £40 and £60 is the place for it.’ Zuzanna Rogowska, M Restaurant
‘At the high price points, they might go on a wine pairing menu when the sommelier dictates what you drink.’ James Hocking, The Vineyard Group
‘The non-Rieslings were really nice honest wines – German wines for Chardonnay fans. In fact, you could probably put them on a tasting menu wine flight instead of Chardonnay.’ Ian Howard, The White Hart Inn at Lydgate