Italy: Central - Red, including Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
2016 Gold: 3 Silver: 6 Bronze: 4 Commended: 7
2015 Gold: 2 Silver: 5 Bronze: 6 Commended: 4
Lacking in must-list appellations, this part of Italy needs to deliver wines that are incontrovertibly food-friendly and (ideally) competitively priced. Once the OTT ‘look-at-the size-of-my-codpiece’ wines had been weeded out, it did the former, though rarely did it deliver astonishing value for money.
Winemakers here, it seems, all want to make Hunger Games-type blockbusters, whereas in fact they might be better off aiming for cheaper ‘straight-to-video’ fare.
The Lacrima di Morro d’Alba – an interesting, different, undeniably food-friendly beast that picked up a Food Match Trophy – showed what this area can do when it leaves its ego at home and concentrates on just making something nice to drink.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘There were some very big, rich, overdone wines here, but when producers got it right, they were also balanced and fresh.’ Natasha Hughes MW, team leader
‘I expected a lighter touch, more delicate cherry flavours – not as heavily handled.’ Xavier Rousset MS, Blandford Comptoir
‘There’s no demand for wines of this type at £50, no way. But at the cheaper end some delivered – I would put them on the list.’ Christopher Delalonde MS, Medlar Restaurant
“These wines should be approachable. If they are over-oaked or over-structured, you lose the identity, the medium-bodied fruity freshness of Montepulciano.” Gaetano Giangaspero, Orrery
FOOTNOTE: Includes wines from Emilia-Romagna, Umbria, Marche, Lazio, Molise & Abruzzo.