Italy: North-East - Red, including Amarone & Valpolicella
2016 Gold: 5 Silver: 9 Bronze: 8 Commended: 9
2015 Gold: 3 Silver: 10 Bronze: 3 Commended: 8
This region popped and fizzed with the erratic brilliance of a match in a box of fireworks. Amarones supplied the big bangs that left a hole in the wallet, but a smile on the face and a trembling in the heart of the tasters – plenty of good stuff here this year, and at £25, Domìni Veneti’s Gold Listed offering is practically entry level.
The sparklers were the Veneto reds – cheaper, often lighter and generally joyful wines that made you want to spell out your name in lifted red fruit flavours.
The most problematic flight, without doubt, was the Valpolicellas. There seems to be a big stylistic shift in the region, with fewer producers interested in lighter (and affordable) styles and a move towards richer riper (not always ripasso) wines.
The result? Some wines that metaphorically shot joyous clusters of stars into the air with layers of complexity and interest, and others that stubbornly refused to light or shot problematically sideways and set fire to the garden fence.
The one constant across all the flights? Price. Only four of our medal winners from this region were under £10.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘The Amarones are all too expensive.’ Dominique Raclin, consultant sommelier
‘[The Veneto wines] was a good food flight. They had a lot going on. There was a lot of flavour. The wines all had great personalities. They spoke to you.’ Jade Koch, team leader
‘The Amarones are hard not to like, and actually the alcohol wasn’t too harsh.’ Ignacio Campos, Hawksmoor Seven Dials
‘There is a commercial aspect to these Veneto wines. Customers love these kind of wines: the modern ripasso style. A lot of people in a pub environment are looking for something sweet and fruity by the glass.’ Charlie Young, Vinoteca
‘There was quite a lot of disagreement within the group in terms of style. There were some big “made wines” – international bruisers. I am slightly concerned that Valpolicella is being pushed into something it shouldn’t be.’ Simon Woods, team leader
‘There was a lot of herbaceousness in the Valpolicellas without the fruit that we were looking for.’ Jonathan Kleeman, Social Eating House
‘It’s not too much of an issue selling a £200 bottle of Amarone.’ Andrés Ituarte, Avenue Restaurant
“In game season and in winter, I think these Veneto wines really sing. You could have guinea fowl, venison, wild mushrooms, some quite crazy flavours, without it overpowering the wines.” Jade Koch, team leader
“I got what I was expecting. You have to pay to get good Amarone…” Harry Crowther, M Restaurants
FOOTNOTE: For wines from Trentino, Alto Adige & Friuli-Venezia Giuli.