Italy: North-West - Red, including Barolo & Barbaresco
2016 Gold: 7 Silver: 8 Bronze: 2 Commended: 11
2015 Gold: 4 Silver: 7 Bronze: 4 Commended: 7
When the Sommelier Wine Awards started 10 years ago, this section of the competition was typically all about the bling of Barolo and Barbaresco. But this year we saw a double whammy – a good showing from the two five-star appellations, as well as a lot of positive feedback for the bits of Lombardy and Piedmont that are less well known.
Interestingly, our pricing clichés were turned on their head in this year’s competition. Sure, there were plenty of expensive Barolos and Barbarescos, but there were also some really good examples at ‘how-do-they-do-that?’ prices, not least the Dezzani, which could squeak on to a wine list at £40 if you were feeling generous.
The other north-western reds, meanwhile, which usually fill the ‘amazing-character-for-the-money’ slot, were generally about 10% more expensive than we’re used to seeing. Tellingly, not one of our medal-winning wines was under £10, making these lesser-known styles even more of a hand-sell.
Hearteningly, while this part of Italy clearly isn’t cheap, our tasters really liked what they saw across the board – seven Golds is one of its best-ever performances – and the ‘no fruit, too much tannin’ complaints of last year never materialised in 2016. A region worth exploring.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Overall, the Barolos were a strong flight, with good expressions of Nebbiolo at fair prices… We’re seeing increased interest from consumers. We have one on by the glass, and despite the price, people go for it.’ Nausicaa Rotoloni, Roka Mayfair
‘The customer won’t be familiar with these wines, so you have to hand-sell them. But that’s our job as sommeliers, to try and promote stuff like this.’ Carlos Ferreira, The Sign of the Don
‘North-west Italy used to be a great place for value for money; wines with a bit of fun and elegance for under £40 on a list. We got a few of those at the right price points, but it got over that level pretty quickly.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader.
‘The quality [of the non-Barolo flight] was very good. They all had good structure – whether as food wines or for easy drinking. From ham at the lighter end, through pork to game, there were plenty of options.’ Tamas Czinki, Northcote
‘I loved the fact that nothing was sanitised – that volatility and meatiness. They were proudly Italian. Good on them!’ James Fryer, Portland
‘Barolo is a classic – it works better in England than Barbaresco; it’s better known.’ Victor Amaro, Hotel du Vin Tunbridge Wells
“The price has gone up in the last 5 to 10 years. Barolo is the new Burgundy.” Enikő Heidenwolf, 67 Pall Mall
“The north-west is known for Barolo and Barbaresco, which need a lot of time. These other reds are more approachable – which makes them useful for wine lists.” Michael Fiducia, Drake’s Restaurant
FOOTNOTE: Includes wines from Valle d’Aosta, Lombardy, Piedmont & Liguria.