Spain: Rioja – Reserva & Gran Reserva
2016 Gold: 4 Silver: 6 Bronze: 5 Commended: 9
2015 Gold: 5 Silver: 10 Bronze: 9 Commended: 11
Our tasters could be forgiven for feeling slightly confused here. There were reservas that were cheaper than crianzas, gran reservas that were cheaper than reservas – and jovens (in other flights) that were more expensive than the lot. Such is the slightly unreal world of Rioja where, as Macbeth put it, ‘Nothing is but what is not’.
What is certainly ‘not’, on this evidence, is the olde style of gran reserva. And having spent years in this competition arguing about which style they preferred – richer and fruity or lighter and oxidised – our tasters were more or less unanimous in mourning its passing. A bit like the local greengrocers – nobody ever used it when it was there, but cried their eyes out once it had gone.
The reservas were more consistent in style and, moreover, consistently good. There was plenty of good stuff here, throughout the price points, and we managed to find a nice ladder of wines for the Gold List. And of course, if you can get one at the right price it can fly off the list – even with a chunky margin – sentiments we’re sure the Thane of Glamis would appreciate.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘The whole “classic versus modern” debate is confusing the issue. I like oak, but I also need complexity.’ Enikő Heidenwolf, 67 Pall Mall
‘Top end is harder but crianza and reserva sells.’ Jonathan Kleeman, Social Eating House
‘These were impressive. Right from the cheapest there were some amazing wines. A few were a little green round the edges, but overall very good.’ Zigmars Grinbergs, Vinoteca
‘Spanish wine is very good value for money at the moment. These overdelivered from £6 to £18. There were some great expressions of Rioja, with really good integration, which is the key to this category.’ Maurizio Palomba, Sushi Samba
‘It was underwhelming. We had a good selection of price points, but they generally failed to deliver for the money.’ Mya Brown, The Ledbury
‘Rioja can still deliver high-quality wines cheaply. Customers still ask for it a lot.’ Giacomo Dragoni, Galvin La Chapelle
‘Generally, the public likes the more fruit-forward, less oaky style of wines. It ticks a lot of boxes for people.’ Harry Crowther, M Restaurants
‘If you like Malbec then you’ll like the new style of gran reservas, but traditional is more elegant.’ Lionel Periner, The Lucky Onion