Rosé above £6.00
2017 Gold: 4 Silver: 6 Bronze: 5 Commended: 23
2016 Gold: 2 Silver: 9 Bronze: 8 Commended: 9
With apologies to those of a delicate disposition, but the expression ‘bugger’s muddle’ comes to mind here. We had good wines sub-£8, and awful wines at twice that; beautifully constructed elegant wines with oak and clumsy, tanky wood-free flab-monsters. And we had tasters who see rosé as a significant part of their list all year round, and others who barely sell a glass, even in summer.
Just take a look at that ‘commended’ count… it tells you that there’s a lot of OK winemaking going on, but not much to get excited about – although four Golds was our best-ever performance here.
On this evidence, if it’s quality pink stuff you’re after, you need to be in France (all four Golds were from the country) and definitely NOT in the New World. Not a single medal of any description for the first time ever…
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Overall, it’s possible that people aren’t taking enough care – that these are sometimes an afterthought.’ Geoffray Bénat, Cépages Wine Bistro
‘I have two rosés on my list and they don’t sell. I think it’s a wine to have in a certain place – on a sunny terrace.’ Neil Tabraham, Paris House
‘Customers don’t spend money on top-end rosé.’ Laurent Richet MS, team leader
‘I see rosé selling all year round.’ Luciana Girotto-Beckett, Macellaio RC
‘A lot of the oaky styles tasted very engineered, they could be made from any grape variety anywhere in the world – and I don’t know many restaurants that could sell a rosé at £25 cost price.’ Matthieu Longuère MS, Le Cordon Bleu London
‘On a wine list, I don’t have a limit, it depends on the winery. But my guests wouldn’t pay too much for a rosé.’ Jacopo Armenio, Vinarius
‘The balance between acidity and fruit was good. Very summery, light, fragrant, delicate, seasonal. It’s never good value, but £10 is about what you expect to pay.’ Andrea Bricarello, team leader
‘People diss rosé but I think it can be a great wine in its own right.’ Charlie Young, Vinoteca
‘People expect a certain style. I’ve had some darker, more skin-contact styles sent back.’ Stefan Kobald, Jason Atherton Group
FOOTNOTE: Rosés under £6 can be entered into the House Rosé category.