Champagne: NV & VINTAGE
2017 Gold: 8 Silver: 15 Bronze: 2 Commended: 17
2016 Gold: 10 Silver: 23 Bronze: 9 Commended: 19
A strong number of medals for champagne this year, with our tasters continuing to be impressed with the overall quality, and enjoying the riper fruit and lower dosage that seem to have become the norm for the region over the past five years.
Despite higher prices, and the rampaging hordes of prosecco clamouring at the gates, our tasters were unanimous in saying that champers remains a must-list, and one almost untouched by trends elsewhere.
Indeed, there was only one negative: a reduced number of entries (and smaller medal count as a result) for vintage champagne.
From one point of view, this is understandable. If they’re trading up, consumers tend to go for either prestige cuvées or prestigious grande marque NV; few really understand vintage champagne. And while it’s definitely good for food matching, the public are still taking some convincing that bubbles and food go together.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘It’s good to be able to get a house champagne that works with food as well. Cocktails are taking more space on the aperitif menu, so champagnes need to be able to do more.’ Raphael Thierry, Street XO
‘It was hard to throw stuff out, and the bottom end was amazing value for money.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader
‘Vintage champagnes definitely work better than NV and rosé styles when matching with food, it’s the complexity and the array of texture and flavours that they bring to the table.’ Angela Reddin, team leader
‘There were a lot more good value wines at the cheaper end, so there’s no excuse for having poor champagne on the list.’ Mike Best, WSET
‘There’s a lot of English sparking and cava going out, but champagne will always set the benchmark in terms of prices.’ Harry Crowther, M Wine Store
‘When do you have champagne? You have it at the start of the meal. I don’t have the chance to match it with food much.’ James Fryer, Portland Restaurant
‘The vintage champagnes were good value regardless of what their price point was.’ Hamish Anderson, Tate Catering
STAR PERFORMER
Congratulations to Champagne Lanson, who picked up three Golds at this year’s Sommelier Wine Awards, for their Extra Age brut, their off-dry White Label, and their NV rosé. A fine performance!