New World: including Torrontés, Gewürztraminer, Viognier & Koshu
2018 Gold 2 Silver 9 Bronze 7 Commended 14
2017 Gold 7 Silver 8 Bronze 6 Commended 13
Over the past few years, this section has narrowed down as the likes of Gewürz, Torrontés and Viognier picked up good numbers of medals and were given their own sections in the book. But all three of these categories under-delivered this year and were rolled back into this section as a result.
Whether or not that’s an eloquent comment on the future of white aromatics in the New World, it means that these few pages are a riotous hotchpotch of single varieties and oddball blends. Everything from Albariño to Koshu via Roussanne, Fiano and Semillon/Chenin mash-ups.
None of these (even the single varieties, interestingly) were thought of as wines that were going to walk off the list, so our tasters were looking for bottles that the sommelier could recommend with both passion and a clear conscience. Sadly, there weren’t as many as we’d hoped.
Gewürz and Torrontés we know can be a bit Marmite for tasters. But the Mediterranean white grapes seem to be taking their own sweet time in making much of an impression in the Sommelier Wine Awards, which is surprising. As for Viognier, it’s had more comebacks than Cher, and shows about as much class and restraint.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Aromatic grapes – you like it or you hate it.’ Lionel Periner, team leader
‘It’s less important where the Viogniers are from, but rather whether they’re showing that varietal typicity. The cooler climate were the most successful.’ Annette Scarfe MW, team leader
‘We sell international cuisine, with a West Midlands touch – meaning curry. These aromatic styles go well with oriental spices.’ Mikolaj Harmider, Adam’s Restaurant
‘It was a masterclass in how not to make wine. Here’s fruit, here’s sugar and never the twain shall meet. If we hadn’t known what the grape varieties were we wouldn’t have been able to guess.’ Nigel Lister, team leader
‘Gewürztraminers are always a bit of a hard sell. People never know if they’re getting a sweet or a dry wine.’ Andrés Ituarte, Coq d’Argent