New World: Other Red Varietals & Blends
2017 Gold: 4 Silver: 14 Bronze: 13 Commended: 24
2016 Gold: 7 Silver: 17 Bronze: 9 Commended: 17
Made up of oddball blends and less-usual grape varieties, this is the kind of place where winemakers go to play when they’re let out from ‘making £5.99 Merlot’ duty, so it’s not surprising that we get a lot of entries here. The medal count, however, can vary as wildly as a Leonard Cohen live performance: amazing one year (like 2016), meh the next.
This year was sorta kinda average. Our tasters generally detected more freshness and balance at the lower end, before wineries put their pedal to the metal around the £15 mark with wines of serious power and concentration.
On this evidence, Australia is top of the class with this left-field stuff, Argentina near the bottom, with everyone else somewhere in between.
We’d have hoped for a bit more of a showing from Maule, to build on its encouraging performance last year, but it was heartening to see a rare Tannat Gold – the only surprise being that it came from Argentina, rather than Uruguay.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Not many of these wines made me think “Oh my God these need to be on a list somewhere”.’ Jade Koch, team leader
‘There was definitely some good value among them. If you’re looking for a big, bold red it’s a good place to look.’ Neil Tabraham, Paris House
‘Too concentrated and heavy. Not easy to match with food.’ Arnaud Fiol, The Don Restaurant
‘There were signs of real elegance [from Maule]. You get flowers and structure that you wouldn’t necessarily expect from Chile. The wines were either really good or really faulty.’ Tom Forrest, team leader
‘The good ones had a nice balance between boldness and freshness.’ Simon Woods, team leader
‘It’s a wide-ranging category, but overall very pleasing. Value wise, there’s something for everyone, it covers everything. And even on the high prices it delivers.’ Andrea Briccarello, team leader
‘A lot of very good wines, a lot of diversity – some good technical winemaking.’ Corin Ireland, Restaurant Sat Bains with Rooms
‘This was a fabulous flight of big, big wines. Such good food wines.’ Richard Brooks, Caroline Catering