Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Bordeaux Blends, Rest of the New World
2017 Gold: 3 Silver: 9 Bronze: 4 Commended: 9
2016 Gold: 3 Silver: 8 Bronze: 5 Commended: 7
Typically, this section is a two-way battle between California and Argentina, but the Americas didn’t have things all its own way this year. It was heartening to see a rare Kiwi Gold here (yet another for Saint Clair, which has carried out a single-handed assault on the New World section of this year’s competition), and also our first-ever Chinese medals, with a couple of Lenz Moser’s venture in Ningxia. The straight Cab looks very good value at under £10.
Argentina performed creditably, though with such an enviable climate and so many slopes, soils and orientations to play with we might have expected more. There’s a feeling that the country is becoming rather over-obsessed with Malbec and could be guilty of underplaying its hand with Cab.
As for California, while our tasters did find some good wines here, in general this is perhaps the wine style where the cultural divide between Europe and the US is at its deepest. Those that did best tended to have a bit of balance along with the turbocharged fruit.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘We saw a few problems with oak and alcohol from Argentina, but others excelled well into restaurant quality – more fragrance and better tannin.’ Kelvin McCabe, Yauatcha
‘The style is a bit greener in New Zealand, a bit more vegetal, but not in a bad way. In Bordeaux you get more dark fruit.’ Olivier Gasselin, Hakkasan Group
‘The quality was good in the £10-£14 area – and we had long conversations about the more expensive wines, some of which really delivered. They have the chance to make great wines in Argentina, and now some of them are doing it.’ Sara Bachiorri, Chez Bruce
‘In the last five years oak use has been toning down in California. People will drink a bottle – but only one. I don’t want my customers to order only one bottle of wine.’ Lionel Periner, team leader
‘You’ve really got to pick and choose which ones you’re going to go for [from New Zealand]. The Cab Franc tended to be more successful. Sometimes the Cab Sauv was just a bit too green.’ Annette Scarfe MW, team leader
‘A few really fantastic wines. Well made, concentration, well structured. Very good value.’ Charles Van Wyk, FJB Hotels