New World: Malbec
2017 Gold: 7 Silver: 16 Bronze: 16 Commended: 20
2016 Gold: 6 Silver: 15 Bronze: 8 Commended: 16
Like a giant damson-scented juggernaut, Argentinian Malbec rumbles on, crushing lesser wine styles in its path and providing easy profit for everyone from pubs to Michelin-starred restaurants.
This is very much a variety that does what it says on the tin: well-priced, reliable and easy to like. And for the most part our tasters are still very happy with it. One or two are, admittedly, starting to get a bit bored with it – the public’s Malbec obsession makes it hard to sell anything else – but there are signs of both more lifted, perfumed elegance (welcomed by our tasters) and more ambition, where the signals were more mixed.
Our tasters found top medals at virtually every price point, from £5.99 to £20+, and though both oak use and bottle weights would benefit from dropping a bit at the upper end, there’s no arguing with those numbers: nearly 40 medals is a huge statement of intent.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘They are trying to take Malbec to a new level, from easy drinking to more terroir and complexity – a kind of spice and celery character alongside all that lovely black fruit. Some producers are doing a really good job.’ Giuseppe Longobardi, The 3A Pub Company
‘Even some of the bigger, richer, spicier wines finished cleaner and fresher than they used to.’ Carlos Ferreira, The Sign of the Don
‘Every time that they use a lot of new oak they kill all that fruit. £7-£8 is the sweet spot for me. And if you put an expensive wine on the list I don’t think you would sell it. People who buy at that price level would probably rather buy something else.’ Alessandro de Angelis, Jamavar
‘It’s moving from the pub category to a very fine wine. If I did have a message to Malbec, it’s to stop using such heavy bottles!’ Tanya Mann, Linden House Stansted
‘Customers expect to get a good value wine with Malbec, but it was nice to see the quality going up as the price went up.’ Scott Levy, Smith & Wollensky
‘I don’t get super-excited about Argentinian Malbec. With sommeliers, Malbec is a bit like the next Sauvignon Blanc, we’re all growing a little tired of it.’ Sara Bachiorri, Chez Bruce
‘Malbec is the most popular grape at the moment – but it stops you from selling other more interesting stuff.’ Nuno Pereira, New Street Grill
‘Chile has a long way to go to reach the quality level of Argentina.’ Jonathan Giffrin, Claude Bosi @ Bibendum