New World: Pinot Noir, New Zealand
2017 Gold: 8 Silver: 7 Bronze: 5 Commended: 19
2016 Gold: 4 Silver: 6 Bronze: 8 Commended: 7
Boom! That noise you can hear? It’s the Kiwis passing the Pinot Barrier in the Sommelier Wine Awards.
The country has generally been a surprise disappointment with this variety – particularly perplexing, given that outside Burgundy, it’s known as THE place for the variety. But this year it finally delivered on its promise.
Even though eight Golds was twice what the country has ever managed here before, the real good news was the feedback from the teams: informed, sympathetic and practical, it was proof that this is a category that is bang on our judges’ radar.
The teams detected differences in regionality, differences in winemaking and differences in ambition – but they mostly felt that the winemakers were delivering with all of them, and they could see a use for them, too, from cheerful, fruity Marlborough Pinots through to complex, savoury, textured examples from Martinborough.
Even Central Otago, which has often failed to deliver on its own hype in the past, was warmly received, with our teams detecting better balance to the wines.
It seems invidious to pick out a star performer, but this is the second year running that the extraordinarily well-priced Foley Pinot has picked up a Gold. #justsayin’.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘The wines from outside Marlborough and Otago were the most impressive: complexity, mouthfeel, integration with the oak, mid-palate weight and the body and focus to stand up to that high acidity.’ Harry Crowther, M Wine Store
‘There was a real sweet spot [from Marlborough] between £9 and £12. A lot of restaurants could do these by the glass.’ Hamish Anderson, Tate Catering
‘I used to think of Central Otago Pinot Noir as being an opulent style with perfumed fruit. Now winemakers are playing with a structured Burgundian style, too.’ Annette Scarfe MW, team leader
‘We found a lot of reduction and cooked jamminess from Marlborough.’ Frances Bentley, Individual Restaurants
‘In places like Martinborough we’re seeing mature vineyards producing wines that are ready to compete with Burgundy. They’re not just identikit Pinot Noirs, they’ve got a lot more to say.’ Martin Lam, team leader
‘There was a good contrast between the vibrant, fruity styles and the earthier, funkier, more animally styles. Both types did well and there were a couple of real standouts at various price points.’ Rebecca Coates, consultant sommelier