New World: Chardonnay, Australia
2017 Gold: 5 Silver: 7 Bronze: 3 Commended: 8
2016 Gold: 4 Silver: 4 Bronze: 5 Commended: 6
The stylistic shift in Aussie Chardonnay has been well documented over the past few years, but it’s interesting that somms’ attitudes to it seem to be changing, too. Several well-respected tasters made the point that these wines are genuine alternatives to good Burgundy, and that mind set had an impact on the shape of this year’s Gold List wines.
Previously, most of the Golds have tended to be between £10 and £15, with maybe one wine over £20 as a doggie treat to the tasters. But this year we had three wines between £10 and £20, one between £20 and £30 and one at almost £40. These wines, clearly, are doing a very different job from what restaurants expected of this category 20 years ago.
Interesting, too, to see the rise of Tasmania. Along with the well-established Margaret River, it looks like the region to watch.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘There was very good consistency in this flight; some big, oaky wines and also lighter styles. It was interesting to see how Chardonnay styles are evolving in Australia. You can still say it’s Australian Chardonnay – but they are elegant, classy.’ Marcin Oziebly, The Wild Rabbit
‘There were some good examples of the style that is coming out of Margaret River now: cleaner, fresher, more elegant.’ Andre Luis Martins, Cavalry & Guards Club
‘There were some great examples of modern Australian Chardonnay here. There was a range of styles from the over-the-top fruity to classic old-style Aussie Chardonnay.’ Hamish Anderson, Tate Catering
‘I don’t think that customers have a fixed idea of the style of Australian Chardonnay. My customers ask for Margaret River Chardonnay and I have two on my list. One is a Burgundy style and one is lighter with more fruitiness.’ Federico Forte, Plateau
‘Margaret River seems to be following the Mornington Peninsula cool-climate trend, but I’m not sure that’s a good thing. Mendoza clones are planted here, rather than the Dijon clones that are in Mornington, and they give big, tropical fruit flavours.’ Annette Scarfe MW, team leader