New World: Chardonnay, California
2017 Gold: 2 Silver: 3 Bronze: 1 Commended: 4
2016 Gold: 1 Silver: 1 Bronze: 2 Commended: 0
Big fruit, big oak, big prices… these wines are as defiantly American as a Hawaiian-shirted tourist looking for Lye-cester Square. As such, they’re very much Marmite wines – you either like the style or you don’t.
But a heartening number of our tasters enjoyed what they were trying here. As other parts of the New World become more restrained, this is one of the few places where you can get this bigger style of fruit-driven Chardonnay, and the Californians do it very well. Particularly Truchard, whose 2014 followed the 2013 on to the Gold List.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘This flight was polarising. I think these definitely have a place on a wine list, and when the oak is restrained, they can work particularly well with food. I do think Californian Chardonnay remains a hand sell though.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader
‘California is an exciting, big region, with a lot of climates and microclimates. You find a variety of styles. Some go more savoury and salty, and some can be quite extravagant, while others are straightforward and good value for money.’ Damien Trinckquel, Galvin Brasserie de Luxe Edinburgh
‘It’s love or hate with this type of Chardonnay. Some were lean and clean, but the flight then moved to some heavily oaked wines. I’m becoming a huge fan of unoaked New World Chardonnay, and I’m hoping we’ll see more in the future.’ Olivier Gasselin, Hakkasan Group
‘We tend to benchmark these with Burgundy – that’s their inspiration. They are mastering their oak better than they used to, and bring some minerality, too. Maybe a category to watch for a few years’ time.’ Frédéric Billet, Luton Hoo Hotel Golf & Spa