New World: Chenin Blanc
2017 Gold: 2 Silver: 7 Bronze: 5 Commended: 8
2016 Gold: 2 Silver: 5 Bronze: 3 Commended: 5
South Africa utterly dominates this category – to the extent where we are half reconsidering renaming it Steen – the Afrikaans word for the variety. Ach, who are we kidding? It’s a horrible name… we wouldn’t do that to you. But South Africa’s utter domination of this section is very real.
Go back five or six years in the Sommelier Wine Awards and we’d get the occasional medal for a Chilean or Kiwi with this grape, but now the Saffers have just brushed all contenders aside in a giant tsunami of beautifully ripe Chenin.
It was surprising that our teams didn’t pick out any of the (many) sub-£10 bottles on display here (there are some great wines for the money) but the pricing here still really isn’t outrageous. Moreover, there seems to be some genuine affection for the more expensive wines, too: a winning combination of richness, ripeness, expensive oak and good natural acidity.
For people who like the bigger styles of New World Chardonnay but can either no longer find them or no longer afford them, this category represents a really good option.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘It was very positive – a very good flight. It was the most consistent flight so far. There were some different styles – people playing with fresher and more reductive wines through to bigger, richer styles. But we found medals throughout. There were valid styles at every price point.’ Hamish Anderson, Tate Catering
‘It was very different from what you would get in the Loire. More tropical, but still approachable. The cheap ones don’t necessarily need food, the more expensive ones were big but really well integrated.’ Sam Caporn MW, team leader
‘At £11-£14 we got more flavour, texture and typicity, but I was expecting some good cheaper versions.’ Sara Bachiorri, Chez Bruce
‘I don’t like Chenin usually, but I totally loved the most expensive wines here. They were rich, dry and complex – great wines for all occasions.’ Andrea Cotichella, Wernher Restaurant at Luton Hoo Hotel Golf & Spa
‘Chenin is very price based. They totally got better and better as they went through the flight.’ Sue Jones, The Harrow at Little Bedwyn
‘I prefer the drier, fresher style. It’s not just a price thing – that style is easier to sell, especially with summer coming.’ Masahito Suzuki, Sosharu
‘With the oaked wines we had to pay a lot before we got ones that we liked, and I was expecting something better at the lower end.’ Tom Forrest, team leader
‘They were at good price points, and with a nice mix of styles. The more complex ones were not overwhelming. They still had freshness. They would work with more complex dishes, like creamy sauces or maybe spicy food – Moorish cuisine.’ Mattia Mazzi, Lutyens