New World: Other White Varietals & Blends, including Koshu
2017 Gold: 5 Silver: 7 Bronze: 4 Commended: 11
2016 Gold: 5 Silver: 4 Bronze: 4 Commended: 5
Typically, this section is where winemakers go to run free; to frolic, like labradors on a beach, without a care in the world; and to have a bit of fun with less-typical varieties that might or might not go on to be the Next Big Thing.
Ten years ago, this was all about weird blends (perm any three from Chardonnay, Riesling, Vermentino, Sauvignon and Viognier) but it looks like producers are starting to hone their craft somewhat.
Over the past decade we’ve seen a steady growth in Rhône whites and, more recently, the arrival of some lighter sexpot styles such as Albariño. We don’t get vast numbers of the latter, but it does seem to be getting rave reviews. This was the second year on the trot that the variety has found a place on the Gold List, with the succulent version from Garzon following hot on the heels of Te Awa, which contented itself with a Silver this year.
There were a few negatives, of course – over-oaking and too much alcohol were both mentioned in dispatches, though both rather less than would have been the case a few years back.
For next year? More Koshu and more Albariño, please!
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘The lighter wines were an interesting selection. Fresh and easy, with lovely textures. These are easy to sell, easy to understand and show a new face of the New World to guests. And price-wise they’re attractive.’ Antoine Cabre, Spring Restaurant
‘The Uruguayan Albariño was really interesting.’ Annette Scarfe MW, team leader
‘The richer wines were the worst flight I tasted of the two days. There was bad winemaking, the alcohol was all over the place, and acidity was low…’ Andre Luis Martins, Cavalry & Guards Club
‘The best richer wines were the most expensive ones – the rest weren’t well balanced.’ Jade Koch, team teader
‘I think this category is gradually getting better every year. This year there was some value at the lower end.’ Lionel Periner, team leader