New World: Viognier
2017 Gold: 2 Silver: 3 Bronze: 2 Commended: 3
2016 Gold: 1 Silver: 3 Bronze: 1 Commended: 2
It’s fair to say that Viognier has never quite hit the heights that were predicted for it 15 years ago, when it was being touted as Chardonnay’s tartier younger sister. But it has, nonetheless, carved out a good niche for itself in the Sommelier Wine Awards, and there really are signs that the New World’s winemakers are getting the hang of it.
After ‘super rich and syrupy’ 10 years ago and ‘rather lean and charmless’ four years back, the pendulum seems to have swung to a good place, balancing varietal expressiveness with elegance and freshness. The medal count might have been more or less the same as usual, but the feedback was far more positive. Encouraging. A few more entries next year might really get some impetus behind the category because the wines seem to be there.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘I was very impressed with the flight, I’m a big lover of Viognier in general. It’s a grape that’s misunderstood, but the winemakers here have done a really good job.’ Stefan Kobald, Jason Atherton Group
‘I liked this style, you can find wines for pubs, gastropubs to fine dining restaurants. I’m impressed.’ Tanya Mann, Linden House Stansted
‘Generally, Viognier is quite a hard sell. People may have got into the mind set that it’s a very ripe style, but there was a lot of restraint from the New World here; not as much wood as expected.’ Angela Reddin, team leader
‘They can be cloying, but these were very good examples. Very good quality and they were cheap. Much less perfumed, and cleaner than a few years ago. It’s becoming much more elegant.’ Sue Jones, The Harrow at Little Bedwyn
‘There is a market for New World Viognier.’ Ian Howard, The White Hart Inn at Lydgate
‘You start to see them pulling back from the rich, ripe, obvious style, to a more elegant and Old World style: less alcohol and oak, more understated.’ Matthieu Longuère MS, Le Cordon Bleu London