FRANCE: Chablis
2018 Gold 2 Silver 4 Bronze 3 Commended 2
2017 Gold 4 Silver 5 Bronze 2 Commended 8
The number of Chablis entries has fallen over the past few years – but it’s not that they don’t want to show off to the restaurant trade; it’s just that some of them literally have no wine to sell, or are eking out what little they have.
One can’t help but feel sorry for the region’s growers – frost has wrecked their businesses in recent years.
We got very mixed messages here. Some teams were thoroughly underwhelmed with what they got. Others loved their flights unconditionally. All, however, spoke of the differences in style (whether riper/leaner or oakier/unwooded) and the rising prices.
Our cheapest medal was priced at more than £13. It seems to be a trend that’s here to stay, but it probably prices the region out of the majority of this country’s wine lists.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘You pay an extra fiver for Chablis but you don’t always get extra quality for it. I’m not sure they justify their price point globally. You pay a premium for the name.’ Jade Koch, team leader
‘Salinity, minerality, subtle, saltiness… I found what I expected to find. Razor sharp style.’ Aurel Istrate, The Connaught
‘A fantastic flight. We had a range of vintages, from a range of sites, with flinty, minerally styles to much riper styles, with some unoaked, and others showing a bit of oak.’ Annette Scarfe MW, team leader
‘There are so many other good Chardonnays that can do that style of tense, fine, unoaked Chardonnay, Chablis no longer has a monopoly.’ Simon Woods, team leader
‘The cru Chablis were probably the best flight we’ve tasted today. Intriguing, with different expressions coming through. Really delicious. You could take two and offer a comparison on a wine list, like offer something fresh and mineral as well as something buttery and rich.’ Piers Gibson-Birch, Wernher Restaurant at Luton Hoo Golf & Spa