France: South & South-West – White
2018 Gold 6 Silver 5 Bronze 4 Commended 8
2017 Gold 5 Silver 8 Bronze 5 Commended 11
Something is happening in the South of France – at least it is for white wines. After years of tasting entries here that were flavourless, flabby or ferociously over-oaked, since 2016 we’ve seen much better wines from France’s Mediterranean coast.
And so it continued this year. Six Golds was the best this region has managed in the Sommelier Wine Awards since the competition began.
Stylistically, our tasters seemed to like the wines either ‘light but with flavour’ (with Muscat, perhaps surprisingly, doing rather better than Picpoul) or ‘richer and more succulent’. There’s hardly any grape better at fulfilling that description than Viognier, and our tasters were very impressed with what they found here – and the price that it came in at.
The only slight complaint? The relative underperformance of cooler-climate Chardonnays, but that’s a minor grumble. This was a strong section.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘At the entry level these were crisp, elegant and fresh – ticking all the right boxes.’ Andre Luis Martins, Cavalry & Guards Club
‘The Muscat was a bit of a knockout for everyone.’ Debbie Warner, Wild Wine Club
‘At the entry level there were really good value-for-money wines, and they had typicity.’ Lazaros Engonopoulos, Coq d’Argent
‘You get what it says on the tin here. Grapey, floral, aromatic, and good by-the-glass wines for sipping on a summer’s day.’ Robert Mason, Cheese at Leadenhall
‘The flight started with what could’ve been a great house wine, and then a £30 wine at the top that we liked, but in between this was a mixed bag, with wines that were somewhat anonymous.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘These were good wines and the price points were really good throughout, particularly for restaurant wine lists.’ Mikolaj Harmider, Adam’s Restaurant
‘There was some exceptional value in the Viogniers – many sub-£6 and £7 wines. Really good stuff, showing varietal typicity, and nice use of oak.’ Annette Scarfe MW, team leader