FRANCE: White Burgundy
2017 Gold: 8 Silver: 9 Bronze: 3 Commended: 11
2016 Gold: 4 Silver: 7 Bronze: 0 Commended: 2
This might not be enough to make newspaper editors hold the front page, but here, if you needed it, was conclusive proof that sommeliers love white Burgundy. Eight Golds here broke a Sommelier Wine Awards record that has stood since 2013.
Hearteningly (indeed, surprisingly) they weren’t all at the top end of the price range either. All but a handful of medals (and the majority of the Golds) were under £20, which practically counts as entry level for Burgundy these days.
It’s probably not an accident that all the medal winners were from 2014 or 2015 – two good, approachable years for the whites.
The region needs a bit of this consistency. As some panellists pointed out, while it might still be a must-list, the high prices and sometimes variable nature of the region have cost it a few friends over the past 10 years.
STAR PERFORMER
Well done to Louis Jadot. Its showing in its homeland was exemplary this year, with Golds for Beaujolais and white Burgundy backed up by a Silver for a 1er Cru Beaune Rouge as well.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘I think customers feel safe with Burgundy. You have your Pouilly-Fuissé and Mersault drinkers – they’re loyal to the category.’ J Corey Evans, St Swithins Wine Shippers
‘We pair white Burgundy with classic seafood: scallops, langoustines. I have a cod and cauliflower dish on my menu at the moment which is great with white Burgundy.’ Geoffray Bénat, Cépages Wine Bistro
‘At Dabbous, I’ve got some Burgundy for £400 on my list, though most of my Burgundy sales sit around the £80 mark. People are happy to buy Burgundy at that price because they know it’s inherently an expensive wine.’ Charles Pashby-Taylor, Dabbous
‘I thought the mid-range here were average. For £60 or £70 on the list a bottle should stand out. Due to vintage issues, I don’t think customers do trust Burgundy so much at the moment.’ Olivier Marie, team leader
‘Burgundy is a must-list for me.’ Robert Mason, Cheese at Leadenhall
‘This flight was pretty consistent. I like Burgundy and I stock a lot of it at different price points.’ Andre Luis Martins, Cavalry & Guards Club