FRANCE: Bordeaux
2017 Gold: 7 Silver: 8 Bronze: 12 Commended: 10
2016 Gold: 5 Silver: 13 Bronze: 6 Commended: 8
And so it continues. After generally skulking around the edges of the Sommelier Wine Awards with loads of attitude and a nasty line in tannin, Bordeaux hit a record number of Golds for the third year on the trot.
We got two rather lovely whites, a stunningly well-priced Bordeaux rouge and a string of excellent Left Bank reds as well, from the A-List 2010 vintage and the less-heralded 2012, which now seems to be hitting its straps. Considering that (give or take 20p here or there) all our Golds and most of our medal winners were under £20, there was a lot of pedigree on display here.
The only disappointment (and it wouldn’t be Bordeaux without a ‘but’…) was, as so often, the Right Bank, where the tannins were greener, the fruit less charming and the prices often on the high side.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘This selection showed you don’t need to spend a lot of money to have a nice white Bordeaux. It’s easy to match with food – quite gastronomic, especially for Sauvignon Blanc.’ Antoine Cabre, Spring Restaurant
‘Quite a few of the Right Bank wines were quite green with a lot of oak used to make up the wine, to make it look and taste more attractive. I was disappointed.’ Olivier Gasselin, Hakkasan Group
‘Bordeaux is consistently relevant as a category; you’ve always got people going for the classics, at all ages of customer.’ Michael Fiducia, Coworth Park Ascot
‘The Left Banks were a great flight. All of us as sommeliers get very bored selling Bordeaux, but this shows that there’s a lot of value in the category.’ Andrés Ituarte, Coq d’Argent
‘Bordeaux is still very important on a wine list, especially at Christmas. Sale or return worked very well for us this year – we sold more and had a bigger choice – it was a profitable exercise for me.’ Frédéric Billet, Luton Hoo Hotel Golf & Spa
‘I was pleasantly surprised. Bordeaux has been a bit out of fashion between £12 and £20… but these wines showed very well. I wouldn’t be offended if I went to a restaurant and was charged £70 for any of these. The Left Bank flight were serious, well-made quality wines.’ Olivier Marie, team leader
‘The moral [of our flight of Right Banks] is: don’t try to have a cheap Bordeaux, particularly in a poor vintage. A lot of astringency and greenness at the lower price points.’ Annette Scarfe MW, team leader
‘We will always list it, and we will always sell it.’ James Hocking, The Vineyard Group