FRANCE: Red Rhône
2017 Gold: 4 Silver: 7 Bronze: 10 Commended: 15
2016 Gold: 7 Silver: 6 Bronze: 6 Commended: 9
If there is one area of this competition (besides fortified and white Burgundy) where our tasters often get a bit carried away, this is it. We typically get around 30 medals here – with half a dozen of them Gold. So, while fine judged by the standards of any other section of the Sommelier Wine Awards, this year’s 21 medals (including four Golds) can be seen as a rather underwhelming performance by the standards of the Rhône’s reds.
The issue, strangely, seems to be the northern crus. Our tasters found a well-priced cheapie and a couple of good Châteauneufs from the south, but while this would normally be topped off with a string of amazing St Josephs, Hermitages, Côte Rôties et al, this year only one made the step up. And overall we had far more Bronze and Commended wines than we usually get in this section.
It’s hard to pin down what the problem was. Maybe the lack of a stellar vintage to work with? Certainly, the fact that our four Golds all came from different years might say something.
Answers on a postcard, please…
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘I was expecting to be more blown away by the northern Rhônes than I actually was. Although we found medals all the way through, there weren’t many that were exceptional.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader
‘People don’t necessarily look for Côtes du Rhône, but they will recognise it, and are happy to drink it if you push them towards it.’ Raphael Thierry, Street XO
‘People are beginning to realise that around Châteauneuf there are some amazing other villages. The southern Rhônes were our best flight of the day.’ Angela Reddin, team leader
‘The Côtes du Rhônes were really hard work. Faults, astringency, over-cropped fruits, poor expressions, brett, reduction, VA…’ Rebecca Coates, consultant sommelier
‘If you go outside of Châteauneuf there’s lots of value for sure, but prices are rising outside of there now, too.’ Tobias Brauweiler, Sake No Hana
‘The balance was the key to the northern Rhônes – that mix of violets and spice. Some had that slight green note, but that’s typical of the style. As long as they had fruit to balance it that was OK.’ Giuseppe Longobardi, The 3A Pub Company
‘Syrah is one of my favourite varieties, so I’m extremely demanding. If there’s one point that’s scary, it’s the price tags. When you need 70% GP it gets expensive for the customer.’ Christopher Delalonde MS, Bleeding Heart Group