FRANCE: Loire
2017 Gold: 4 Silver: 8 Bronze: 3 Commended: 8
2016 Gold: 7 Silver: 8 Bronze: 3 Commended: 4
You might look at the fall in Golds here from last year and wonder what went wrong. But in fact 2016’s haul of seven was very much a blip and this year’s total of four is still above average for this region in the Sommelier Wine Awards.
Moreover, it’s a good spread of styles and prices, too. If we were being picky we could point to the lack of a sub-£10 Sauvignon (we’ve more or less given up on ever getting a good spread of reds to choose from), but being able to put a good, well-priced Sancerre, a Vouvray, a Muscadet and a Chardonnay (!) on our list made for a strong showing.
Special praise to Grands Chais de France, by the way. They scooped two Golds and a Silver, all under £8, which isn’t bad going.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Loire reds are such a food-friendly style. I’m surprised that there weren’t more of them. They’re ideal for wine lists in spring and summer, or to pair with a lighter dishes.’ Jade Koch, team leader
‘There were a few Sancerres that lived up to high expectations, but a few where maybe people had tried to extract too much fruit. For me, this is a region where the wine makes itself.’ Tobias Brauweiler MS, Sake No Hana
‘There was a broad range of styles [in the Sauvignons], and we found great wines at all price points. Some of these would need a hand sell, but it would be worth doing.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader
‘Some of these whites were great for gastropubs, at the £7 or £8 mark. They’re good as aperitif wines, or with a salad in the summer.’ Julien Sahut, Sexy Fish
‘Above a certain price point in the Muscadets you could see where the sur liei kicked in and added some complexity. I think Muscadet is coming back in the UK, and about time too!’ Tom Forrest, team leader
‘I really liked the off-dry wines here. There was a great balance between acidity and sugar, which made these very expressive.’ Adam Michocki, Chez Bruce
‘I wonder if some of these had struggled with a warm vintage. Some producers seemed to have rolled with it, but others had produced fruit bombs.’ Mike Best, WSET