Italy: Chianti
2017 Gold: 5 Silver: 4 Bronze: 3 Commended: 9
2016 Gold: 1 Silver: 6 Bronze: 5 Commended: 5
Chianti, like ever more of the country’s recognisable wine styles, appears to be undergoing a process of gentrification. Having made its name as the cheap (and often cheerless) stalwart of trattoria up and down the country, nowadays it’s increasingly found strutting around in an expensive suit and carrying a silver-topped cane.
There were some really good wines here: wines of balance, elegance and food-friendliness. But not many of them would make it on to a wine list under £40 (the Trambusti being an eye-poppingly cheap exception).
Not that this is necessarily a bad thing, just that it pays to keep abreast of the fashions. That boy from the back streets with the accent? He’s grown up, and is wearing an expensive suit and carrying a silver-topped cane.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Chianti is definitely something you should have on your list. There’s so much natural food friendliness – though that means you wouldn’t want it without food.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘There was great typicity to these wines. You knew you were in Italy. I’m not sure how many people like this style any more, but they’re great food wines.’ Andrés Ituarte, Coq d’Argent
‘The Classicos were a bit tricky at the lower end, but when you get to the Gran Selezione they hit their stride, with spice and weight and depth.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader
‘There’s a real sense of terroir to the Chianti Classicos, and they’re very well suited to restaurants, with sour fruit, but a meatiness too, and some rosemary and thyme. They make you want to eat something,’ Damien Trinckquel, Galvin Brasserie de Luxe Edinburgh
‘For customers, Chianti is one of the most recognisable wines. There was great quality here, and so much food-friendliness, which makes them particularly well suited to the on-trade.’ Tom Forrest, team leader
‘There were lovely wines here, with so much potential. They were elegant and fruity, with that leathery, meaty spice you’d expect. And all with really good value for money.’ Chantal Serrano, Tamarind of Mayfair