Italy: South - Red
2017 Gold: 5 Silver: 10 Bronze: 2 Commended: 11
2016 Gold: 0 Silver: 5 Bronze: 5 Commended: 8
So it’s official. If you want value for money in Italy, you have to head south. While the region’s whites were slightly underwhelming, the reds from Puglia, Calabria and Campania were far more warmly received.
Yes, there was a bit of over-exuberant alcohol at times, and occasionally the oak use was a bit OTT, but generally these fell just the right side of ‘rustic’, with bags of character and a sort of joyous charm that won over the majority of our tasters.
STAR PERFORMER
Well done to the Cantine di San Marzano – two Golds and five Silvers was a hugely impressive effort, and a significant step up on last year.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘These were textbook south Italy, with liquorice and good fruit.’ Adam Michocki, Chez Bruce
‘These certainly weren’t shy and retiring. They were opulent and polished, as well as oaky, but with Italian freshness, too. There was good value throughout, and some really snazzy wines here, overall.’ Sam Caporn MW, team leader
‘I loved these. They were successful at integrating the oak, and there were some elegant and mineral examples. This is definitely a category to look out for, particularly for higher-level on-trade.’ Tobias Brauweiler MS, Sake No Hana
‘I thought these were amazing in the £6 to £11 price bracket. I found purity, and some minerality, but fruit at the same time. These wines taste like they were made by a human being, in a cellar. And they have a real sense of place.’ Xabier Alvarez, Trangallán
‘We weren’t finding the rich, ripe fruit you’d expect from this region. I was really expecting something more approachable. These should be structured, but the fruit should be there, too.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader
‘The best wines here, at the higher price points, were all worth their price tags, with good concentration, good structure, good use of oak and good varietal character. They had freshness, and good versatility for food matching, including spicy food.’ Diana Rollan, Hakkasan Group
‘I think they’re trying to overcomplicate things here. There were good wines, with nice rusticity, but they’re putting these in expensive oak and they lose their grace.’ Angela Reddin, team leader