Italy: Tuscany, including Montalcino & Montepulciano DOCG
2017 Gold: 7 Silver: 11 Bronze: 3 Commended: 15
2016 Gold: 6 Silver: 8 Bronze: 4 Commended: 8
Where you stand on these wines probably depends on a) how deep your wallets are, and b) your tolerance for tannin. Both pricing and structure were on the high side – and where some saw elegance, power and ageability, others saw over-pricing and lack of balance. Within the same teams we had tasters extolling the wines as ‘expensive but worth it’ and others complaining about lack of balance.
This, we can conclude, is the way of Cabernet Sauvignon. In good years, it can be superlative, in bad years its edgier aromatics tip over into a green note – and not everyone is a fan.
As for pricing, not a single medal under £10, very few under £15 and two Golds over £50 tells you most of what you need to know. A few more Rossos wouldn’t go amiss next year, methinks.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘The Brunellos were very traditional, and, without exceptions, they all had a similar style: good tannic structure and freshness That’s a good point about Italian wine – you can be sure of what you’re getting.’ Marek Rakowski, Harbour Heights Hotel
‘I was hoping to find savoury, meaty, juicy, Sangiovese – but this flight was more about the Super Tuscans. You can sell wines like Sassicaia and Ornellaia – but you need the brand name.’ Christopher Delalonde MS, Bleeding Heart Group
‘A lot of the Tuscan winemakers are using Cabernet, which dilutes the sense of place. For me this is a very modern style – too reliant on oak.’ Angela Reddin, team leader
‘I thought this was a really good flight – Tuscan wines are not cheap but they deliver, and my customers do go for big Italian reds – it’s a good category for my list.’ Marcin Oziebly, The Wild Rabbit
‘With Super Tuscans my customers do have the knowledge of Ornellaia and Sassicaia and they will pay for those. But I don’t think that Tuscany is a brand, the way that Bordeaux is.’ Hamish Anderson, Tate Catering