Italy: North-East - Red,Veneto including Amarone & Valpolicella
2017 Gold: 5 Silver: 13 Bronze: 8 Commended: 15
2016 Gold: 5 Silver: 9 Bronze: 8 Commended: 9
Three very different wine styles on these pages: mostly well-priced Verona reds, mid-weight Valpolicellas and heavily pumped Amarones.
Overall, the medal count was pretty good – more than 40 wines (medals plus Commended) was a record for this section. But these were generally flights that divided tasters. Some liked the sour-cherry fruit and tangy acidity, others couldn’t get past the pricing or, in the case of Amarone, the sheer size – both of price tag and alcohol. And the ‘new versus traditional’ debate in the world of Valpol is probably still rumbling on.
As a general observation, we’d probably get warmer feedback and more Golds if we could have a few more wines around that £10 price point.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘I couldn’t drink half a bottle of Amarone with a friend, even if I could afford it. They should bottle everything in halves. It’s impossible to sell a whole bottle of Amarone.’ Hamish Anderson, Tate Catering
‘Valpolicella offers consistent drinking. You can see why these wines turn up on lists as they’re very food friendly.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘I wouldn’t say Amarone is out of fashion exactly, but it’s so expensive, and there can be a problem with people liking one style, but getting another.’ Daniele Di Blasio, Pollen Street Social
‘People don’t ask much for Valpolicella.’ Olivier Gasselin, Hakkasan Group
‘The most expensive [Veneto reds] were like bodybuilders, although they were well made with a lot of freshness. The best wines combined freshness with ripe fruit.’ Matthieu Longuère MS, Le Cordon Bleu London
‘A list will probably have one Amarone, but it has to be a very good one.’ Sara Bachiorri, Chez Bruce
‘[The Veneto reds] were a nice easy-drinking style, but I thought they were slightly overpriced when you compare them to similar wines from Spain and Portugal.’ Luciana Girotto-Beckett, Macellaio RC
‘Veneto reds are underrepresented on wine lists. They’re achieving with subtlety and elegance what a lot of winemakers would kill to be able to do.’ Angela Reddin, team leader