Italy: North-East - White, Veneto including Soave
2017 Gold: 6 Silver: 5 Bronze: 4 Commended: 11
2016 Gold: 2 Silver: 5 Bronze: 4 Commended: 2
The Veneto has two of the biggest beasts in the Italian white wine world, home, as it is, to both Soave and lots and lots of Pinot Grigio. After that, you’re into random blends and regional oddities, though in fact our teams found plenty worth celebrating across the board here. And it was refreshing to have almost half our medal-winners under the £10 mark.
It’s clear that (unless you’re happy to run suicidal margins) the days of the ‘£20 on a list Soave’ are as passé as the Sugababes, but the more ambitious versions mostly found favour with our tasters.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Pinot Grigio is always difficult. The perception is cheap and cheerful. Can it be expensive? Yes. Are people willing to pay? I’m not too sure. But it can deliver a lot of pleasure. It can go from pub to fine dining, it depends on the style and richness that you’re looking for.’ Andrea Briccarello, team leader
‘The north-east whites were a great flight. Even at the entry level, there wasn’t a lot wrong with these.’ Tom Forrest, team leader
‘In some examples, there was both an oiliness and a freshness to these wines, while others were made to appeal to a young, stylish, contemporary audience, with high acidity.’ Carlos Ferreira, The Sign of the Don
‘I was surprised. I was expecting lighter, more floral wines, but actually the north-east whites were textured and complex. You could divide the flight into two, the first well suited to by the glass lists. The other half were too rich to have on their own, but better served with food.’ Chantal Serrano, Tamarind of Mayfair
‘I think we need to create the demand for these [pricier] styles [of Pinot Grigio]. People don’t think about Pinot Grigio in fine dining restaurants. Twenty years ago, the character of Pinot Grigio was completely different in the UK.’ Lionel Periner, team leader
‘I really liked the Soaves. There was good acidity throughout, while some had some body, and a honey note. They’re wines that you can play with a lot when it comes to food pairing.’ Mattin Larraburu, Sexy Fish