Portugal: Red, including Alentejo
2017 Gold: 2 Silver: 6 Bronze: 4 Commended: 11
2016 Gold: 4 Silver: 8 Bronze: 4 Commended: 12
A few commentators have been trumpeting the charms of Portugal as the ‘next big thing’. But on this evidence we need to be wary of promoting the country before it’s ready. There’s still a lot of wine out there that’s not much better than average, and if we want to get consumers on board, it’ll take much more consistency and excitement than we’re seeing at the moment.
Take the Alentejo. After an encouraging 2016, with eight medals and seven Commendeds, it managed just two and four respectively. Hardly earth-shattering.
On the plus side, Casa Ermelinda Freitas looks well worth exploring. Two Golds last year, and another this year, plus three more medals was impressive. Here’s hoping others follow its lead – it’s definitely doing something right!
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘You see a bit more rusticity and interest in Alentejo, there’s less copycatting of France and the like. It’s real, it has authenticity.’ James Fryer, Portland Restaurant
‘A little bit disappointing. You always expect a good punch of fruit and nice ripe tannins, but [in this Alentejo flight] the fruit was lacking.’ Timothy Connor, Bread Street Kitchen
‘This was one of my favourite flights of the day. It was consistent, with a good price-to-quality ratio. We could pick out the varieties and the regions.’ Andre Luis Martins, Cavalry & Guards Club
‘There’s a danger that if the wines have no Douro identity and they’re not from Alentejo, they’re in a no-man’s land. Portuguese reds are really a hand sell.’ Simon Woods, team leader
‘There were interesting wines at very different prices, right up to the top level.’ Martin Lam, team leader