Spain: Rioja - White, Crianza & Sin Crianza
2017 Gold: 4 Silver: 13 Bronze: 7 Commended: 23
2016 Gold: 6 Silver: 11 Bronze: 11 Commended: 14
The concept of sin crianza Rioja is changing before our eyes. Ten years ago, it was almost entirely for cheap, unaged reds. But a growing number of bodegas seem to be using it as a means of producing quality, aged wines that just elect not to be formally classified. We had an even split in the medals this year between ‘young’ sins and oak-aged-but-unclassified ones.
The tasters might be taking a while to get their head around the fact that ‘sin crianza’ doesn’t necessarily mean cheap and cheerful, but they’ll have to get there eventually. On this evidence, it’s a thriving style.
As for the crianzas – the procession of medals at or below £8 shows why the region is still popular with the public; there’s still value for money here.
Finally, has everyone just given up on white Rioja? Just two years ago, this was a vibrant sub-category in the Sommelier Wine Awards with three Golds and a stack of supporting medals. Now it’s firmly in the ‘meh’ arena. #sosad as Donald Trump might say.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘If white Rioja didn’t exist, you wouldn’t invent it…’ Simon Woods, team leader
‘Customers know all about Rioja. They ask for it – there is strong demand.’ Laurent Richet MS, team leader
‘I think you can find better value in Ribera del Duero than Rioja.’ Charles Pashby-Taylor, Dabbous
‘You need to spend a lot of money to get a really good Rioja. I don’t think the value is there.’ Neil Tabraham, Paris House
‘I’m seeing less dusty, serious wines. This flight felt like the new generation of Rioja.’ Luciana Girotto-Beckett, Macellaio RC
‘There were people [in the sin crianza flight] trying to express their region more sympathetically and not too concerned about working within the traditional classification. How confusing that is for the consumers, I’m not sure.… but it’s nice to think we might be seeing that start of the next chapter.’ Martin Lam, team leader
‘A lot of people do ask for white Rioja – as they know the reds so well. I think white Rioja should have a certain amount of freshness.’ Kelvin McCabe, Yauatcha
‘These were definitely good value at the cheaper end, and would do really well on a pub wine list as a house wine; no faults and very cheap.’ Jacopo Mazzeo, The Pig Hotel (Brockenhurst)