Spain: Rioja – Reserva & Gran Reserva
2017 Gold: 3 Silver: 8 Bronze: 5 Commended: 11
2016 Gold: 4 Silver: 6 Bronze: 5 Commended: 9
As with the crianzas, jovens and whites, this was a rather insipid performance from Rioja. Not bad, you understand, just uninspiring. Medal count and feedback were both generally middle of the road, and while pretty much all of our tasters agreed that this is an absolutely essential category, with high customer recognition, they weren’t especially excited by it beyond its ability to generate profit.
This, though, will get harder on this evidence. Whereas the sweet spot a couple of years ago was in the £9-£11 area, now it’s more like £11-£13, taking the wines through some crucial price points on the way.
More positively, we had our first Gran Reserva Gold for many years. Well done Lan.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Reservas are a very popular category across the wine lists of London. There was something for everyone.’ Andrea Briccarello, team leader
‘It’s not always worth paying more for gran reserva, especially if the quality of the oak being used isn’t good.’ Charlie Young, Vinoteca
‘The Reservas were a good flight. They were all very clean, fruit-forward, fresh wines, all well made.’ Jade Koch, team leader
‘Some producers in Rioja go for extraction, others are more understated. To find out the style you’re better off paying more attention to the degree of alcohol and the vintage than the term reserva.’ Matthieu Longuère MS, Le Cordon Bleu London
‘It’s very popular with consumers, for them Rioja means Spanish wine. Many customers ask for it when they’ve tasted it before. You find them on every wine list in good restaurants. People know the name, they come back and ask for it.’ Jacopo Armenio, Vinarius
‘Almost half our Gran Reserva flight were faulty, but there were some nice medals in the end. There was a lovely mix across price points and traditional styles and modern styles.’ Annette Scarfe MW, team leader