Champagne: NV & VINTAGE
2018 GOLD: 5 SILVER: 13 BRONZE: 11 COMMENDED: 20
2017 GOLD: 8 SILVER: 15 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED: 17
This was not a particularly good year for Champagne. Five was the smallest number of Golds for more than three years and the atypically large number of Bronzes and Commendeds (our most ever here) tells you what our tasters thought about much of what they were tasting.
The words ‘solid’ and ‘reliable’ turned up time and time again, ‘exciting’ less so, and there was a feeling that this is a style that’s being sold out of duty rather than out of any real love on the part of the restaurants. Well done to Lanson and Champagne Palmer, though – both picked up Golds for the second (and in Palmer’s case third) year on the trot.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘At their best the non-vintages were phenomenal – elegant and complex. For NV we weren’t necessarily looking for extra complexity, although we did find that in some of the wines here.’ Manuel Ribeiro, The Bybrook at The Manor House Hotel
‘Some of the [non-vintage] prices were a bit high. £25 is probably what you want, especially for restaurants.’ Masahito Suzuki, The Social Company
‘The ultra dry champagnes were very good, but it’s not a crowd-pleasing style.’ Charlie Young, Vinoteca
‘Good value for money here, particularly around the entry level and middle price points. There was varying use of reserve wines, with some using more reserve wine for more complexity. Champagne houses are moving towards that overall, and it’s a good thing.’ Annette Scarfe MW, team leader
‘Our team were more impressed with the lower price points than the upper end, with some fantastic prices, great balance and great textures.’ Sue Jones, The Harrow at Little Bedwyn