Other Fortified Wine
2018 GOLD: 4 SILVER: 5 BRONZE: 3 COMMENDED: 6
2017 GOLD: 7 SILVER: 8 BRONZE: 5 COMMENDED: 7
We’re never quite sure what we’re going to get in this section. Literally. We could be swamped with uber-classy Madeiras or drowning under a herby raft of vermouths. We did get a couple of the latter this year, but they didn’t make the cut. Perhaps one for merchants to consider for 2019 – it’s a hot category in the bar world and somms quite like it.
This year we had a wide spread of styles coming in. Yes, there was a fair chunk of Madeira, and yes, unsurprisingly, it did very well. But there were also some lighter styles and a few classic syrupy liqueur muscats from Oz that gave our tasters a monumental (though classy) sugar rush.
With value generally very good here, and the wines able to survive for a long time once open, our tasters saw this as a great place to go hunting for really interesting by-the-glass options with serious margin potential.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘These lighter fortifieds were all pretty interesting wines, and all interesting from a food perspective, from the younger to the very old ones.’ Manuel Ribeiro, The Bybrook at The Manor House Hotel
‘These Rutherglens are classic by-the-glass wines that you don’t need Coravin for. If you’ve still got some left after a month, no problem! You don’t necessarily get more sweetness in the higher-priced bottles, just more concentration.’ Simon Woods, team leader
‘Montilla is what sommeliers should be looking out for. Most would be cheaper [than sherry] too.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘I love Madeira. If you spend £50 retail, you can keep it open for three weeks. It’s good value for money when you compare it to red wine. It’s good with cheese, with chocolate. And it’s a good alternative for someone that wants a digestif but something not as alcoholic as Cognac.’ Lionel Periner, team leader
‘Even Madeira that’s not of the highest quality is delicious. They go with so many types of food, not just dessert. They’re such unique interesting wines and we need to talk about them more.’ Andrés Ituarte, Coq d’Argent
‘All sweet, delicious. We don’t see a lot of Madeira, we sell more Tokaji, Sauternes, Rieslings… but I’m a fan of it for price/quality ratio, and for something slightly different.’ Edgaras Kazokaitis, Roka Aldwych