Port
2018 GOLD: 7 SILVER: 7 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED: 5
2017 GOLD: 9 SILVER: 12 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED: 12
We should re-name this section Tawny. Ten years ago, the port category of the Sommelier Wine Awards was mostly about LBVs, reserve and vintage. Red ports, in other words. But the colour has shifted markedly over time towards the more oxidative styles, which probably makes sense. These wines last far longer once they’re opened – and boy do they deliver!
Our tasters were in raptures over this lot. We didn’t get a particularly huge entry of tawnies and colheitas but they dominated the places on the Gold List, leaving a trail of enraptured sommeliers behind them. There’s probably nowhere else in this competition that can deliver the complexity and sheer class for the money that our medal winners here do.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘A great flight, providing you with a glimpse of what the category can do. It’s mind blowing. Usually you choose a tawny for a list and you don’t think about it again, but this flight was an eye opener.’ Chris Delalonde MS, Bleeding Heart Group
‘I would list most of the tawnies. This is a wine where the value for money is fantastic. You can sell a glass of high-quality stuff for £5 and make a high margin. I think people were too focused on vintage port before, but tawny is growing every day.’ Manuel Ribeiro, The Bybrook at The Manor House Hotel
‘The [tawny and colheita] bottles can even improve after they’ve been open and you can keep them open indefinitely.’ Carlos Ferreira, The Don
‘There are styles of port that are crying out to be rediscovered, and colheita is one of them. These ’98s weren’t much more than £30 a bottle – where else can you find a wine this old and in this condition?’ Tom Forrest, team leader
‘Tawny is a category that the British public doesn’t know much about. I think there’s more character there than some vintages.’ Michael Fiducia, Coworth Park Ascot